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I LOVE comments, so please, if you have an opinion or would like to ask a question, do so. But do check back as I shall answer any questions in the comments of the relevant post - that way, everyone can benefit from everybody's knowledge and advice.
Showing posts with label Theory. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Theory. Show all posts

Friday, 3 June 2011

Is Being Beautiful Really Important?


In some parts of the world today, physical ugliness has almost totally disappeared.  


 In some affluent Western societies a child could grow up never having seen anyone with any kind of extraordinary feature such as a large nose or even sticky out ears.  Fairly low-level disfigurements such as facial warts or acne scarring are also now on the decrease.  Unless you live in an underdeveloped country you could go your whole life without ever seeing serious ugliness in the flesh.  This must be, on the whole, to the good.  But does it condition us into only seeing the superficial?  I worry that if society as a whole elevates youth and beauty to the highest height we are in danger of becoming ageist and shallow. Or perhaps I should say MORE ageist and shallow since this trend is already well under way.


One would think that today, when a girl can earn her own living and need never resort to the patronage of of a husband to support her, her appearance would be less of a concern.  As we know, this is not the case.  Beyond having healthy skin and hair women still want to look as attractive as possible.  Only nowadays we declare that we are doing it for ourselves (because we are worth it!)  

 I am old enough, and confident enough to recognise that my main reason for trying to improve my appearance is for the sake of others and how they may regard me.  If I were the last person left on earth I would not care about how I looked.  My looks are important to me, but I have established where I draw the line.  For example I will splash out occasionally on a very expensive item of clothing which I believe flatters my shape but I will not go as far as liposuction or breast enhancement, even though both procedures would probably flatter my shape more than a well cut dress.  These are personal decisions and if you have never thought about just how important your looks are to you and where you draw your own line, then it is time that you did.

A woman I once knew was so concerned about her looks that she would not answer the door unless she had her make up on, in fact she did not even like her husband to see her without her makeup.  At night she removed her makeup and then retired to bed in the dark and rising before her husband awoke in the morning she would appear at the breakfast table looking as she always did – beautiful.  She will be much older now and although we have lost touch, I daresay her routine is very much the same - but perhaps takes a little longer to accomplish, lol! 

If you are truly indifferent to the way you look then spending time in front of the mirror or visiting the beauty parlour may be considered a total waste of time.  If your appearance is very important to you, but you don’t have the time or money to devote to your looks, you may feel very frustrated and unhappy.  Beauty (being defined as each one of us looking our very very best) can be achieved on fairly small sums of money, but ALWAYS needs a certain amount of time. Your first step is to determine your priorities, how important your looks are to you and how far you are prepared to go to maintain them.

We each have natural features that we consider to be nice, and equally, features that we dislike.  Look at yourself in the mirror and decide which are yours.  Write them down in two lists.  This is mine from a little while ago to give you an idea of what I mean:

Features I like: Nice Big Green Eyes with long lashes.  Good cheekbones.  Full lips. Very long hair. No split ends.
Features I don’t like: Grey streaked hair. Wild fuzzy hair.  Small forehead. Acne scarred skin.  Large pores.

I know that someone who has written on her list that she doesn’t like her tiny eyes with short stubby lashes will envy me my nice big green eyes with long lashes.  Likewise if she has rich auburn hair that gently curls on her list I will be turning green.  Whatever features you have put on your list you can be sure someone is envious of you.  This is putting your appearance into perspective.   


Be honest with the list, don’t worry you can rip it up when you are finished, you don’t have to keep it or show it to anyone, although it can be interesting to look back at it from time to time (this list is already out of date for me and writing this is a reminder that I should do it again).  

The list will give you an insight into what features you want people to notice and which you would prefer that they didn’t.  It will also give you a starting point for improving those features that you really dislike.  For example, I listed my grey streaked hair as the first of my features that I dislike.  I really dislike the grey colour so I decided to do something about it.  I accepted the fact that I did not wish to use commercial dyes because my hair is too fragile to cope with the damage that they cause, so I began to investigate natural plant dyes.  Using the plant dyes takes several hours but it was important to me and so I made the time to do it.  I also made extra time both morning and night to apply conditioning oils to my hair – this has helped with calming down the fuzziness.  Of course it is not perfect and it needs daily attention but it is natural, long (a feature that is important to me) and if I have a special event to attend it will take styling with heat and using gels etc… without falling out and without too much damage or breakage – provided I don’t do it too often! 

I decided that I couldn’t do much about my small forehead – although changing hairstyle can do wonders for changing the appearance of your face – it turned out that I wasn’t so concerned about it as I was the greyness of my hair or the condition of my skin, so I concentrated next on my large pores.  A daily wash with Rhassoul mud has done wonders for improving the texture and tone of my skin along with a weekly hydrating mask for my dry cheeks and neck.  If I do nothing else in the way of a beauty regime than concentrating on these two areas, my hair and my open pores, has gone a long way to correcting the features that upset me most about my appearance. 

Next you need to promote your good features.  If, like me, you like the shape and contour of your eyes then you want people to notice them.  If you need to wear glasses you would be best to choose a nice open style that lets everyone see your eyes more clearly, or go for contact lenses if you can wear them.  I have recently started to use a little oil on the area around my eyes because I am getting older and I don’t want to compromise what I consider my best feature, but I don’t want to get rid of the little lines that I see forming, I actually like them, they give my eyes expression and character that I think suits me.  


I remember an occasion when my husband and I were going to a very fancy ball.  I had asked a hairdresser to come to the house to do my hair in a very elaborate style.  The hairdresser took ages and ages to get my hair right and although I had showered and put on my underwear I still had to do my makeup and put on my dress.  With the taxi driver threatening to leave because he had another booking the hairdresser pinned the last curl in place and I dashed upstairs to put on my make up and my dress.  I realised that I wouldn’t have time to do my usual fancy occasion makeup and decided to simply do my eyes.  It took me barely two minutes to apply eye shadow, eyeliner and mascara.  I finished with a quick sweep of blusher on my cheekbones and then stepped into my dress and shoes.  I put my lipstick and lip brush into my purse ready to apply in the car.  

 I had a brilliant time at the ball and later when I saw the photographs I was very pleased that my makeup looked every bit as good as on the occasions that I had taken half an hour over it.  No one would have guessed that I had done it all in record breaking time and I realised that by concentrating on just one or two areas (my hair and my eyes) I had not only saved myself time, I had also drawn everyone’s attention away from my flaws and the areas that I hadn’t had time to fix.


Most of us will already have a skin care and makeup routine that covers normal work days, house days and special events.  By doing your list of features you like and dislike you may find that you have been focussing on the right places all along or you could discover that in fact you don’t need to spend so much time on certain things as on others.  


In the normal course of events very few of us have time for pampering every day, but once a week becomes more of a possibility with at least once a month being the minimum that you can get away with – dependent upon your own individual circumstances, age, condition etc. 

On a daily basis many little beauty jobs can be done while doing other things… a routine manicure, pedicure or face mask while watching tv in the evening for example.  Keeping your beauty products all together in a box or basket that can be brought easily into the sitting room means that you can accomplish all sorts of things while engaging in conversation, listening to music or watching the television.  However, if you live with someone who harbours illusions about you then you may wish to keep these jobs for the bathroom or for when your partner is out. 

…She admitted that there might be some excuse for young girls to curl and frizzle their hair, for they naturally wished to make themselves attractive in the eyes of men – “which was all girls seemed to care about nowadays” – but after marriage no woman should think of using curlers.  Girls, she stated, might seclude themselves from sight till the process of crimping and curling was accomplished, but she could not help feeling deep compassion for the man who was obliged to see his wife in all the hideousness of hard-bunched hair.  Home Notes, Sept 7, 1895.

Friday, 15 April 2011

Chamfered Edging on Soap

I always keep a stash of soap here....


...under the sink in the kitchen.  I don't make a dedicated kitchen soap, I tend to use it just for hand washing anyway, so the same stuff that ends up in the shower can be found here.


I keep it in a brown paper bag tightly closed to preserve the scent of the soap.  It works very well and these soaps, which have been here for months and months still smell of orange and lavender.

When I ran the soap company I very seldom had complaints about the soap - once when a very ancient old lady whined about the price (she thought £3 a bar was expensive) she compared my soap to Lux and said that it wasn't any different so why was it so expensive. She wasn't convinced by my explanation about the precious oils and the abundance of natural glycerin.  But that's all by the way... the main complaint I frequently had, was from men, and it suprised me.  They did not like the sharp edges on the soap.  Even though I explained that the edges would soon round down with use, they always screwed up their faces and said how awkward it was to use sharp edged soap.


I firmly believe that chamfering the edges of the soap is firstly, a waste of soap and secondly, a waste of your time - but if you want to please the man (men) in your life then perhaps it's worth it.


This is how you do it.  It's best to do this once your soap has fully hardened, so after curing for at least 4 weeks.  Take a vegetable peeler (a speed peeler as Jamie Oliver calls it) and run it along the sharp edge of the soap.



A thin sliver of soap will come off.  Sometimes they come off in great long curls, sometimes they simply shatter into little shards of soap.




You can do all the edges, vertical and horizontal.  Then you take a clean dry cloth ( a T towel is good) and polish up the surface of the soap until it shines.  You don't believe me when I say the soap will shine?  Give it a go and you will see what I mean.




The soap is then ready to be wrapped or displayed for all to see how pretty it is... and how nice to use.  And you can be sure that the man in your life won't have to put up with any sharp edges on his delicate skin!


Oh yes, and because I don't believe in wasting anything... all those little shards and curls of soap that peeled off, don't throw them away.  Put them in an airtight container and the next time you are making soap, when it gets to trace, chuck them in, give it a stir and then pour into the mould.  Sometimes if I had an underweight coloured bar I used to cut it into little cubes and I would add it to a batch of plain soap so that when it turned out it looked like dolly mixtures in the soap.  If you use your imagination you could make some really interesting combinations.  Just scent the main batch as you would normally (don't worry if the shards of soap are from a scented batch or not, they are too small to affect the smell of the final soap) and then chuck in the little offcuts, stir and pour into your mould.

Sunday, 13 February 2011

The Perfect Skincare Routine

JUST EXACTLY WHAT IS A SKINCARE ROUTINE

A skincare routine should be cleansing, toning and moisturising - these three you do every day. This does not include makeup removal which you would do prior to the cleanse, tone and moisturise routine.

If your skin is very dry, you could simply tone and moisturise in the morning, saving the cleansing for evening only.

Knowing your skin type will help you choose which natural beauty recipes to use in your skincare routine.


On top of this daily routine, you should deep cleanse on a regular basis. Deep cleansing can be done with mud masks or skin peels but don't be alarmed... all of these can be made from very natural and simple ingredients.

How often is a regular deep cleanse? Well, once again it depends upon your skin type. And everyone is different so you will have to experiment to see how it goes... but a good guideline is that you need to deep cleanse your pores about once a fortnight... increase or decrease this as you adjust your routine, based upon how your skin looks and feels. I have a greasy complexion and I need to deep cleanse about once a week... but sometimes twice a week... it depends what I see in the mirror every day!

There is also an extra step that many people forget about...

Feeding your skin.
This is required less frequently when you are young and more often as you get older. Feeding involves using creams, serums or face masks with more nourishing ingredients. Sometimes these are best applied at night as they tend to be richer and oilier than a daily moisturiser.

Even oily skins need to be fed... but if you have an oily skin you may like to choose recipes that include less 'greaasy' feeling ingredients, or ingredients that are absorbed into the skin more quickly. There are a number of plant oils suitable for oily skin. It's up to you to do a little reading and then choose one and try it out. There isn't a quick fix for this... I can't just tell you to use this organic face cream or that cold cream, you really do have to put a little effort in to understanding your own skin.


Yes I know this blog does seem to be veering away from it's title - Soap Teacher - Once all this theory stuff is on the site I promise there will be more posts of soap making recipes. Honest!

Friday, 11 February 2011

Do You Know Your Skin Type?

Why should you know your skintype? It's all very well my telling you how to make a wonderfully natural oil-based skin cleanser but if you already have very greasy skin, or perhaps a tendency to acne, then you are definitely not going to be very happy with it. Knowing your skintype is the key to improving on what nature gave you. Plus it will save you a lot of money and aggravation in the long run!

Choosing which products will be most useful for your particular skin is paramount if you wish to save money, time and energy (and possibly tears too!). Your skin will reflect your general health and the conditions under which you live, more or less updating on a day-to-day basis.

Firstly, if you do not eat and drink well (as in water not alcohol!) your skin is less likely to look its best. 'Burning the candle at both ends' is notorious for making the complexion look grey and dowdy - you only have to remember the 'morning after the night before' to understand where I am coming from.

Pollution, too much sun, too much wind, extreme cold, central heating, computer monitors, fast food, processed food, cigarettes, alcohol, drugs (recreational and prescription), age and illness are all reflected in the health of your skin and will contribute to your natural skintype, making it worse or better.

There is also the predisposition of your genes. Yes, your skintype is inherited, and there's little you can do about that, but if we take what nature has given us as our starting point, there is quite a lot we can do to improve on it. Without breaking the budget or resorting to surgery I might add!

We need to be realistic here. When we are young and healthy we will be able to cope with most of the items on that long list without too much fuss, but as we get older, or if we become generally unwell (or continue to abuse our health), then the damage becomes much more obvious and our skin recovers much more slowly. It is really important therefore, to understand your skin type and the pressures that you are putting on your complexion. You must also review this regularly so that you can 'tweak' your choice of skincare products accordingly. Your regular skincare routine should be reviewed from time to time as your skin ages or as environmental changes take affect.



NORMAL SKIN

Know your Skintype: Normal has an even tone, the pores are usually not visible and there are no flaky or greasy patches. A normal complexion is supple and smooth and glows with inner health. The occasional spot or pimple may appear from time to time depending upon various conditions, puberty, menstruation, illness etc but in general this skintype is not likely to suffer from acne or other skin complaints. As always, you do have to continue to take care of your health (eat and drink healthily and take regular exercise) and follow a suitable skincare routine in order to maintain this skintype.Someone with normal skin can use just about any natural beauty product they like, it will be down to preference and the end result, to choose which ones become part of your regular routine.

DRY SKIN

Know your Skintype: Dry is uncomfortable and can be visibly so. With dry skin there is usually a lack of the skin's own natural oils which means the complexion is often flaky or even cracked. It is not simply lack of sebum (the skin's natural oil) that gives this appearance but also lack of moisture/hydration. Dehydration is often the cause of the most obvious symptoms for this skintype. A dry skin will feel taut after washing and is often prone to sensitivities. Wind, sun, central heating (including car heaters) and our computer screens, make dry skin noticeably worse. Illness and some specific medical conditions can cause extreme dry skin and related skin problems such as excema or psoriasis - if you suspect that your health is to blame then do seek professional advice from your doctor or specialist.
Our complexions have a tendency to dry out as we get older, and the age at which this happens is totally an individual thing, but our modern lifestyle definitely speeds up this process and dry skintypes will often develop wrinkles far sooner than normal or oily complexions.

OILY SKIN

Know your skintype: Oily often looks shiny and greasy with enlarged pores prone to blackheads. The complexion may look sallow or dirty. The skin has a tendency to look coarse and dull. This condition arises generally when there is overproduction of sebum (natural skin oil) and there are times in our life when this is prompted by our hormones. Adolescense is one of these. Oily skin is prone to acne and unsightly blemishes - again this is no stranger to most of us during puberty. However, hormonal imbalances can cause oiliness of the complexion at any age and diet is definitely a contributing factor. People with oily skin needs to deep cleanse more frequently and may find that natural skin peels become a regular and slightly more time consuming part of their routine. On the bright side, those with oily skintypes are often the last to get wrinkles and show the signs of ageing. But this benefit hardly outweighs the drab look that oily skins can often have.
Some people have combination skins where greasy patches form around the nose, chin and across the forehead. Managing this type of skin requires a mixture of products from the recomendations made for all the skintypes and you will have to take a little extra care in choosing which and what you use.

Thursday, 27 January 2011

Preservatives Lesson 2!

Anti-oxidants & Essential Oils

Anti-Oxidants are things like Vitamin E, rosemary extract and grapefruit seed extract, which prolong the natural shelf life of oils and fats. Their purpose is to interrupt the action of oxygene radicals which damage the integrity and function of various natural substances. They are useful in your product for two reasons. Not only will they help to prevent the natural degradation of the some of the raw ingredients in your formula, they will also help protect skin cells from similar damage, these effects include minimising age spots, imparting radiance to the skin and slowing down the formation of fine lines - so it could be said that they are anti-aging ingredients!
What they are NOT:  Anti-Oxidants are not a preservative - they do not prevent the growth of bacteria in your product.

A note about Grapefruit Seed Extract This is an edible extract produced as a by product of the fruit juice industry, over which there has been quite a lot of controversy, in as much as quite often an undisclosed synthetic preservative is included at the point of manufacture. This means that sometimes when using this raw ingredient alone, your product will be protected against the growth of some bacteria. Many people believed, erroniously, that GSE was the first known 'natural preservative' whithout knowing that it contained a synthetic preservative, using the definition of preservative as something that will inhibit the growth of bacteria.  Since this is an expensive ingredient to include I think it is important to find out as much as you can about it's manufacture before deciding to use it - or you could end up with a product that is over-protected... not necessarily a problem unless you are very particular about managing the levels of synthetic chemicals you use.


Essential Oils such as Tea Tree or Thyme have strong preservative qualities - that is to say they do inhibit the growth of bacteria, however the percentage required in order to protect a pot of cream for example is way too high for safe use on the skin - therefore their use as a preservative is not advised.

How do I Protect my Product?

By making your own products YOU make the decision of which preservative to use and how much to put in. For example if you are including a fresh herbal tea or using flower water rather than distilled water you might choose to use a synthetic preservative at a slightly higher percentage than if your product is made with distilled water and includes tea tree essential oil.

Each formula should be assessed individually as to it's purpose, how long you need it to last and therefore which method of preservation you are going to use, if at all. For example if you are making up a small quantity of body butter for a girlie pamper evening the following day, you may decide not to use a preservative at all since the product will certainly last that long and will be entirely used up on the one occasion.

Documented instances of allergic reaction to synthetic preservatives are rare but you do need to take this possibility into consideration. Always follow the cleanliness guidelines when making your products.

Always follow the recommended percentage of use for the preservative and NEVER exceed it.

Always make your products in small batches that will be used fairly quickly. Never Double Dip!!

Wednesday, 26 January 2011

Preservatives - Lesson 1!

Parabens Anyone?

Asked if they would like to use parabens in their face cream, most people will say, No.

But it should be understood that there is no truly effective natural preservative suitable for use in a cosmetic product.

Before you get all up in arms I am not talking about anti-oxidants... there are plenty of those. I am talking about preservative in the sense of a substance that will inhibit the growth of a wide range of bacteria.

The person who discovers a natural one will have found the holy grail of the cosmetic and toiletry industry. Currently the most popular preservative choices are Sodium Benzoate or a mixture of Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, and Potassium Sorbate and since the choices are still very limited, Parabens.

Bacteria love our jars of cream, there is plenty of food for them and the water provides the ideal medium in which they love to live. Bacteria are easily introduced into the product by contact with human skin... double dipping (that is placing your finger into the pot and then onto your skin and then back into the pot) is the fastest way to introduce bacteria into your home made product. This bacteria will not only spoil your product it can pose a threat to your health too. Becoming infected from using a cream or lotion spoiled by bacteria is no joke - you could be left with severe scarring of the skin, at the very least.

You may have read about Parabens in the press a few years ago. (and since then the internet has abounded with equally inaccurate reports).  but I digress, a report was published that the widely used preservative parabens was discovered in the tumor taken from a breast cancer patient. The inference of the article was that the parabens had caused the cancer. Immediately it seemed like the entire female poplulation of the world checked their bathroom cabinets and binned everything containing Parabens, which turned out to be almost the entire contents of their cosmetic bag. And then found that it was impossible to buy anything without it. Too late... the word Parabens was demonised forever.

Lets put the Record Straight

Parabens has been used as a preservative for decades because of it being extremely effective against a very wide spectrum of bacteria. Actually, nothing else is as good in this respect. Scientifically it is still one of the safest preservatives on the market. You see, not only did they find parabens in that tumour, they also found other things too, from all sorts of foods and cosmetics. And of course, because one tumour does not constitute a viable scientific study - there is no proof that any of the substances found actually caused the unfortunate woman's cancer. I did promise no urban myths here. You will read on other websites that this substance is cancer causing and that you should avoid it... usually by buying whatever product that particular website is selling. The truth is that this is not proven... you can believe what you like... but that's the facts.

In light of the outcry about Parabens they subsequently removed the controversial Butylparaben from the formula.

My next post will cover just what you can do to preserve your home made cosmetic formula.

Sunday, 23 January 2011

Which Skincare Ingredients shall I use?

There are many skincare ingredients to choose from, some natural, some synthetic and some that seem to be in between! And they all come with crazy chemical names that can make you feel very uncomfortable about using them.

This can make many people retreat into the world of very basic toiletries - like going back to medieval times with results that although natural, it has to be said, are often very crude and most definitely not very user friendly for our modern lifestyles. You don't have to just smear olive oil on your face because you are unsure about using modern emulsifiers... there is a way forward.

Of course a great deal will depend upon your own ethics. If you are very very strict about using skincare ingredients in as natural a state as possible then you will definitely limit the amount of toiletries that you can use. But if you consider that even olive oil does not simply drip off the tree... it has to be synthesised or processed by human hands... if you take this kind of processing a step further you have an olive oil spread for your toast in the morning and this is generally considered to be a healthy alternative to using butter... which has much less human interferance. Well it's the same with cosmetic ingredients... some are closer to the tree than others and there is a large number of ingredients that fall slap bang in the middle!



Before I go any further I must add my own personal take on the use of synthetic chemicals as skincare ingredients - I try to avoid them as much as possible, however I believe that a large number of them are safe to use in the correct percentage in products that I occasionally use on my skin and hair. Since when we are in good health our bodies detoxify regularly, I am confident that the small amount of synthetic chemicals that I do use pose no discernable health threat to me... no more so than when I eat non-organic food at a restaurant.What you won't get anywhere on this site is claims that certain skincare ingredients cause cancer or any other health problems. Many such claims you read on the internet have no basis in science and no credible proof anywhere beyond the urban myth.
In the light of modern scientific knowledge there are regulations governing the manufacture and use of synthetic chemicals in products designed to be used on the skin or hair. When scientific proof comes to light about an adverse effect of an ingredient these governing bodies tend to act very quickly to have it removed from use.
I don't know of any cosmetic company big or small who want to poison their customers... they don't want to store up long-term problems for the future either as most of them plan to be in business for a very long time. That doesn't mean that the synthetic ingredients in their products are necessarily good for you... it just means that it can't be proven at this moment in time that they are bad for you.





I believe that it is sensible to cut out unnecessary synthetic chemicals from our lives... as much as possible. However I do not go to crazy lengths... there is no point in cutting off your nose to spite your face. If you live a very 'toxic' lifestyle or perhaps your health is generally not so good...then yes you may wish to cut right down on the use of synthetic stuff. But under normal circumstances with a healthy body there is no reason to believe that a reasonable use of carefully chosen synthetic ingredients (used with knowledge and care) would cause you any harm.

Over the next couple of weeks I hope to have time to blog about some specific chemicals/synthetic ingredients that are
found in lots of cosmetic products.

Monday, 13 December 2010

Hair Wash -

 To wash or not to Wash - The Natural approach to Haircare.

We all have to use a hair wash of some kind right? Or do we? I had suffered with an itchy scalp ever since I could remember. I had always had flakes fall onto my shoulders and I could never wear black tops. I had great difficulty in finding a shampoo or hair wash preparation that would fix this problem without causing me more problems. Gradually over the years I noticed that my hair was thinning and every day I would have to remove stray broken hair strands from my pillow.

I think I let the situation go on so long because everyone agreed that as you get older your hair gets thinner. This is true but it shouldn’t start to happen at age 40. Although we are all individuals and everyone is different, if you are in good health your hair should not start to show age related thinning until you are at least 60 +.

Because I had always used a hair wash for dry hair and also special conditioning treatments I had every reason to believe that what was happening to my hair was the normal degeneration that comes with age. Eventually I had to face facts I was losing the battle to keep up with the latest style, not only did my hair not look good, but my scalp was driving me mad with itching. Finally I snapped. I used to dream of being brave enough to shave my head and start again. Of course I didn’t shave my head. I’m truly not that brave. But I stopped washing it!

Yup! A whole 11 months of not washing my hair. And no, it did not smell - well not after the first 6 or 8 weeks. That's the difficult part. I am not suggesting that everyone would want to be as radical as this, but if you truly cannot find a shampoo to suit and you continue to have an accumulation of hair problems - then you may benefit from simply not washing your hair with any kind of shampoo or soap as I did.
That does not mean to say that I did nothing at all. I used a simple herbal hair washe made at home with herbs and flowers from the garden and the addition of some appropriate essential oils.

Non soap or Shampoo Hair Wash

IngredientsA large handful of fresh Rosemary
Two or three drops of an essential oils blend of your choice (optional)
1 litre fresh spring water. Use bottled water for this if you live in an area with harsh water.
2 tablespoons cider or apple vinegar.
Method
Place the rosemary into the spring water and bring to the boil. As soon as it starts to boil turn off the heat and put a lid on the pot. Leave it to cool to hand hot temperature. Strain the rosemary water mixture into a large jug and add the essential oil if you are using it. Add the vinegar (if you do not have cider or apple vinegar then do use whichever vinegar you have to hand... it's not that important).

How to use
Brush your hair really well for about five minutes with a good natural bristle brush. See the grooming posts for more information about brushing your hair properly.

Place a large bowl in the bath and lean over so that your head is directly above it. Pass the hair wash mixture through your hair so that it falls into the bowl beneath. Rub the scalp vigorously to dislodge any scurf and transfer the mixture collected in the bowl to the jug and repeat the process about two or three times. Dry the hair with a towel and then allow to air dry. Comb with a wide toothed comb when wet. Don't worry about the smell of the vinegar it soon goes away.

To Vary For blond hair or light coloured hair, try using chamomile flowers - or a chamomile tea - in the wash instead of rosemary.

Use this hair wash once or twice a week instead of shampoo or soap. Initially, it is best to try and avoid using heat on your hair, at least until it is healthier and stronger.

Shampoo

I say this often, but it needs repeating, would you throw a real silk blouse into the washing machine on a very hot wash? NO you would not, so why treat your hair to very hot water and lots of rubbing and squeezing and squashing?  Be gentle!!

If you feel you absolutely MUST use a shampoo then try to find a very mild one and use only a pea sized amount on your scalp. Do not worry about washing the hair shaft with the shampoo... as you rinse your scalp the detergent will latch onto the dirt as it flows down the hair shaft. So concentrate on cleaning the scalp only.  Since the scalp is naturally slightly acidic finish with a vinegar and water rinse (just like the hair wash above but you can leave out the rosemary and essential oils if you wish) which will help flush out any remaining detergent.

The real key here is to shampoo your hair only when it is absolutely essential and to use only the smallest possible amount of shampoo at a time. As a rule of thumb once a week is plenty often enough for using shampoo and even better if you can stretch it out to once a fortnight. Try using the hair wash in between times if you feel you need to.

 How to wash your hair. If your hair is short this is fairly simple, long hair is a little more complicated. It is important to first comb the hair with a wide toothed comb to make sure that it is free from tangles. You can now use a hair brush to give the hair a really good brushing and to stimulate the scalp. Wet the hair with water at room temperature. Never have the water really hot. Your hair is as delicate as a pure silk shirt…  Do not flick your hair around as you wet it, you will only tangle it. Once it is wet apply a small amount of shampoo (or soap) to the scalp and massage it well using the balls of your fingers. Do not scrape with nails. It is not necessary to create loads of foam you are only cleansing the scalp remember. Once you have given the scalp a good massaging with the shampoo, rinse with tepid water. The shampoo detergent will naturally course down your hair removing any vestige of dust or dirt adhering to the shaft of the hair. If you feel you need to repeat the process because of excess grease then do so, but repeat it in exactly the same way… even less shampoo this time since it has already cleaned most of the dirt with the first wash.


It is a good idea not to use a preparatory conditioner to start with, at least until you see what proper washing of the hair achieves. After well rinsing you need to use a towel to dry the worst of the water from your hair. If you have short hair this is fairly straightforward. With long hair, press the hair gently between two sides of towelling to remove excess drips. Do not rough up the hair as you will just tangle it and if it is weak it will break. Now you need to use the wide toothed comb once again working from the bottom to the top to remove any tangles that have occurred during the hair wash procedure.

Ideally the hair should be left to air dry as too much heat simply encourages the hair to dry out become brittle and break. If you must use a hairdryer then try it on a cool heat setting and blow it one way only so that you are not encouraging tangles. Dry the roots and the main body of the hair but try to avoid blow drying the ends.

Do not feel that you have no alternative to shampoo. You could try using a natural soap shampoo bar.

Soap

A natural soap can be a wonderful change from using a detergent based shampoo. Choose a soap that has plenty of rich oils included, preferably a soap bar especially formulated for use as a shampoo. My favourite is a super fatted soap rich in Shea butter and Castor oil. The super fatting means that there is excess oils in the soap that will be released onto the hair or skin when you use it. If your hair is naturally very oily this may not be the best hair wash solution for you but it works a treat on dry hair. A shampoo bar can leave the hair feeling thicker and rougher with less shine - depending upon your hair's natural shine ability. But over time it certainly improves the quality and strength of your hair because it is not stripping the natural oils from your scalp. It won't give you the lustrous finish that many commercial shampoos do because it does not contain any chemicals to coat the hair shaft.
Most of us feel we have to wash our hair because it is dirty, this is not usually the case. It is the scalp that is prone to become dirty not the hair and even then it is never as dirty as we imagine it to be. If hair is brushed well and regularly it is unlikely to retain much dirt or dust. So we need to find a way to wash the scalp regularly but leave the hair longer between washes. This is actually easier than it sounds. One way is to part the hair and rub the parting with a flannel which has been soaped lightly. If you keep parting the hair at regular intervals and cleaning the scalp giving the whole head a final rinse when you are finished you will find that a full shampoo is not necessary.

To try and cut down on how much detergents you use in your hair, you will need to rely on careful and considered grooming, along with a realisation and understanding of your hair's natural state. A good hair cut that takes this into consideration can go a long way towards helping you keep your hair healthy.

Rhassoul Mud

If you are happy to try a hair wash experience without any bubbles at all you might want to use Rhassoul mud. Rhassoul comes from Morocco and has been used for many generations as a hair wash and skin cleanser. It is simply a matter of wetting the mud pieces (or granules) allowing them to swell and then massaging onto a damp scalp. The mud can then be rinsed out or left for a few minutes to work in the same way as a face pack. I found that it wasn’t necessary to leave it more than a few seconds on my hair for it to do the job well and unlike many other clay formulations it rinses very easily from the hair. Both natural soap and Rhassoul have what is commonly known as the ‘Big Hair Affect’. Leaving the hair feeling and looking much thicker than usual. But like soap it leaves the hair looking a little dull.  It is worthwhile experimenting with all of the above to find out what works for you.  And once your hair is healthy and strong there is no reason why you can't return to using the occasional bought chemical product for that special look.

Friday, 10 December 2010

Damaged Hair and What to do about it!

What causes Damaged Hair? Well, usually, we do. Poor diet is a major factor in unhealthy hair as well as incorrect brushing, (see the Grooming posts) combing, washing, styling, sun, sea, swimming pools, not to mention shampoos, conditioners, hair dyes, straighteners, perms, gels, waxes and hairsprays all have a big part to play in the daily damage done to our hair. Yep, pretty much everything damages our hair.

Split ends, flakey scalp, dull and lifeless hair and excess hair loss at a young age may all be attributed to your lifestyle choices.

There are treatments that you can use to help repair and heal badly damaged hair but none of them work with only one application and many of them contain a cocktail of chemicals that add to long-term damage. In short, if you continue to inflict daily damage on your hair you are never going to get the upper hand. Therefore it is important to re-learn the basics about hair care and begin a routine to correct the damage already done, or shave your head and start again! If it seems that I am assuming that everyone has damaged hair I apologise. I know that there are women out there who do have beautiful, strong, healthy hair but I am sad to say they are in the minority and they can, of course, simply skip this post.

The Most Common Causes of Lifeless Hair

A poor diet or unhealthy lifestyle will show up as damaged hair. Other factors include, stress, hormone fluctuations, tiredness and the weather. With all of these factors conspiring to give us bad hair days s it any wonder we get overwrought about our hair?!
First and foremost it is important to step back and view the situation objectively. We all of us are envious of someone else’s hair. Few of us are happy with what nature has given us and most of us are disappointed after trying the numerous remedies that adorn the shelves of supermarket and chemist.
Stop yourself before you buy your next hair product. Look at it and ask yourself, am I buying this because I believe the girl in the advert? Am I buying this because the picture shows a beautiful person with unbelievable hair? If there is even a moment's hesitation... then perhaps it’s a good idea to just put it back on the shelf and think about it rationally before spending your money.

Healthy hair under the microscope shows that it is coated with a layer of scales that fit smoothly one slightly overlapping the other. With damaged hair these scales can become rough and raised slightly from the shaft of the hair. This kind of damage can be caused by chemicals in hair products or simply rough handling with comb or brush. If the hair is weakened by the use of chemicals then even using hair clips or ties can cause breakages and lasting damage. When enough individual hairs have been damaged in this way the overall condition of the hair looks very bad. The gland at the base of the hair secretes a special oil designed to lubricate the hair shaft and keep these scales smooth and damage free.

Unfortunately hair wash products (shampoos, which are usually made from mild detergent) will often strip all of the oil from the scalp so cleanly that the hair is starved of its natural lubricant, dries out and breaks. The scalp will then overproduce oil in order to rectify the situation giving you an oily scalp that feels greasy and unclean. You reach for the shampoo designed for greasy hair and the vicious circle begins again.

It is almost worse for those who suffer from dry hair. The hair never seems to have enough oil on it, it never appears shiny or glossy and so products that promise shine by coating the hair with silicon are used. Unfortunately these products are really only short term solutions, since the coating on your hair actually starves the hair shaft of the nutrients that it craves and causes it to further dry out. Ultimately, over time, the hair gets worse not better.

So what do I do first?

The first thing you do is read the Grooming posts. You can begin your new grooming regime right away. Incorrect grooming is often the primary cause of damaged hair. The second thing you do is read the Hair Wash post (coming next) - after this you will be able to make an informed decision about which kind of hair cleaning system you need to use.
As well as reading these posts... YOU WILL NEED PATIENCE. Fixing unhealthy hair takes time - time to improve your diet and to refine your hair care regime. At least 6 weeks of your new healthy hair care lifestyle is required before you can say definitely whether something is working or not. This is NOT A QUICK FIX. In nature there are really no quick fixes.


Wednesday, 8 December 2010

Understanding how your hair works and what it needs.

This might be the science bit but I promise it's short and not too scientific!

The hair root grows out of a kind of bag beneath the skin. The hair strand grows about 0.35mm per day, making an average growth rate of 1cm, or half of an inch, per month. But this will vary depending upon who you are, hereditary factors as well as your diet and general health.

Healthy hair has an average lifetime of between two and six years. During the lifetime of the hair it continues to grow until it reaches the limit of its natural lifespan and then after a short rest period the hair will die and fall out. A new hair will begin to grow from the same bag almost immediately. The lifetime of your hair is determined by many factors, some hereditary, some related to your health and also your current circumstances. The lifetime of your hair will determine the maximum length of hair you can have.

Waist length hair takes about 6 years to grow out from a short hair cut. If your hair has an average life cycle of 2 years before falling out it is clear that you will never be able to grow waist length hair. There you have it folks... time to think about how quickly your hair grows and perhaps put those dreams of Lady Godiva hair behind you.

If you are very happy with what nature has given you as a starting point then you are very lucky and all you have to do is to leave well alone or perhaps just spend extra time on grooming. This I believe would be the ideal. You see nature has designed the perfect hair for each of us… and we were born with it… or it grew very soon after! Why is it that most mother’s while applying all sorts of artifice to change their own hair will rarely if ever use such things on their young children? Because your mother knows that your natural hair really is lovely and it is perfect for your face and your personality. It is what suits you best… I don’t care what is in fashion at the time, your natural hair type, colour and texture is the best you will ever have… every chemical, strong detergent or unnatural solution you apply to alter that may give you a temporary change but ultimately will affect your natural condition, usually for the worse.

While we are young many of us can use lots of chemical products and rough treatments on our hair which can be recovered from with little or no lasting damage. As we get older, or if we become unwell, recovering becomes harder and the damage to your hair may be permanent.

A Hairbrush is the key to good Grooming.

Choose your grooming implements with care and do not skimp on cost as far as these are concerned. A good quality brush and comb will last you for years. A wide toothed comb is important for combing out tangles, especially when hair is wet, choose one that is perfectly smooth with no seams or rough edges upon which your hair can catch. If your hair is long or especially thick you will not need any other comb but if you have short or fine hair then choose a smaller toothed comb for fine styling. The comb can be made of anything at all, the most important thing is that it is very very smooth.
Choosing a brush for good grooming is not as simple as it sounds. I know that there are many modern fibres that may make the use of natural bristles redundant but I have yet to find a synthetic brush that did as good a job as the well made natural bristle brush. Most natural bristle fibres are made from pig hair. Many people would prefer not to use a brush containing pig hair. In my opinion there is no synthetic substance to match and until one is invented I am happy to use the natural fibres. In an ideal world it would have come from an organic pig and perhaps one day that will be the norm – that would certainly make a big difference to the conscience side of things but until then… we are stuck with what we have.

Never brush wet hair. Wet hair stretches very easily and although healthy hair can stand a certain amount of this, damaged hair will simply break. Begin your morning hair grooming routine by combing the hair with a wide toothed comb. If your hair is long start at the end holding the hair with your free hand so as not to pull it excessively when tangles are encountered. Slowly work your way upwards towards the scalp. When you have combed the hair thoroughly take up your brush and begin at the scalp with long sweeping strokes. Think about the process as you brush, you are lifting sebum from the scalp and transporting it down the length of the hair. If your hair is very long it is likely that the ends will always be more dry than the roots as the sebum runs out before you get the brush right to the end of the hair. But even if your hair is short it is still a good idea to do the full brushing routine. Brush your hair for a good 5 minutes at least.

The old tale of 100 strokes with the hairbrush is a good one – though it isn’t necessary to count the strokes, about 5 full minutes will do it. Don’t worry about static electricity this can be easily sorted by passing your free hand along the length of your hair behind the brush.

Many modern shampoos and conditioners actually cause static in your hair and a natural bristle brush goes along way to dissipating any static build up. You should not make static the reason why you cannot follow a good grooming routine. It can be very pleasant to brush your hair thoroughly, not only does it improve the health of your hair, it massages and stimulates the scalp too. And it’s a great deal cheaper than paying for an Indian head massage. (and even better if you can get someone to brush it for you!)

If you have long hair that is not tied up during the day it may be necessary to groom again at lunch time or early evening.
If your hair is excessively dry you may wish to try a little natural conditioner at this point. The best natural conditioner is of course the scalps own sebum but sometimes a little help is required.

Jojoba oil does this very well but does not suit everyone. Coconut oil is another good choice, but in reality any vegetable oil (olive, sunflower, sweet almond) will do provided you are happy with its natural aroma. A few drops applied at regular intervals throughout the day can be very beneficial. It is important not to overload the hair. If your hair is short sprinkle a few drops of oil onto the palms of your hand and then rub them together. Massage your hands over your hair (avoid direct massage onto the scalp, try to concentrate on the hair only). It is immediately obvious when you have overdone it as the hair becomes lank and dull. If your hair is excessively dry and/or very wiry or curly, you can repeat this process until you get the desired effect.

If your hair is long then begin applying the oil to the bottom and driest portion of the hair first. Work your way up the hair shaft towards the scalp, again it is important not to overload the hair with oil. A little oil applied at regular intervals will work much better than a lot applied all in one go.

If you are using a natural moisturiser on your face in the morning and you find that you have slightly greasey fingers afterwards, simply massge in the excess onto your dry ends - it works just as well as applying neat oil.

In the next post I will talk about styling your hair naturally - and then we will tackle the subject of hair dye.  Including full instructions for using henna and other natural hair dyes.

Tuesday, 7 December 2010

Take the Tears out of Hair Care

Next to the appearance of our skin our haircare routine is likely to cause more tears during a lifetime than anything else! A natural approach usually advocates simply living with those 'bad hair days'. There is a solution... but it does require a little re-thinking your approach to your hair, but with better understanding you can improve the health and appearance of your hair enormously.

When I was younger it was a bit unrealistic to walk into the hairdressers and point at a photograph of some gorgeous model and say  "I want my hair like that please".  But nowadays you can buy products that will do just about anything you want, from curling straight hair, straightening curled hair and de-frizzng the fuzzy, not to mention the hair dyes!! The world of wonderful hair would seem to be truly at your fingertips. But at a price... alas for some... it is very costly! Natural hair care is the hardest to get right and since your hair is often one of the first things people judge you on, important to get it right.


The most searched for words associated with hair care are 'split ends' or 'dull and lifeless hair'. Along with Bad Hair Day. Alot of the modern products we use to try and cure these problems will ultimately only add to them. Natural hair care isn't just about looking good, it's about the health of your hair and when you have healthy hair, looking good is often achieved so much more easily.

Natural Hair Care Begins with Grooming.

Grooming could be all you need to bring the natural beauty out of your hair. If we assume you are in good health, eat and drink healthily and are still wondering how to bring the life back into your hair then you should consider this.

I have three cats and each one of them has a different type of fur. They are all common Moggies, no pedigrees here, and they all spend a great deal of time on grooming, but each one has fur that feels different to the touch. One especially has the most gorgeous silky coat while another one has a rougher type of fur that although equally soft is not as silky to the touch. The third has silky fur but not as thick or as long as the first one. These differences are the result of the genes that they have inherited from their parents and the natural predisposition of each cat. In particular the cat with the rougher fur is arguably the most handsome of my cats with a very aristocratic almost Siamese shaped face but his fur is undeniably not as pleasant to stroke as the smallest and most silky of my feline friends. No matter how long he spends on grooming his fur he is never going to have the same silky coat as Molly.



So it is with each of us. Some of you will have hair that is naturally shiny, soft and glossy, others will have hair that grows wiry and thick, thin and flyaway or coarse and heavy.

Some people have naturally weak hair no matter what they do, others seem able to mistreat their hair regularly with little damage done.

This is down to your genes and you need to accept this (no amount of grooming will change your hair type) and look for the positive in whatever nature has has given you. I do not mean that you cannot improve on what you have to start with… but just in the same way that you cannot be someone you are not… there will inevitably be some hair types and styles that you can never achieve.

Over the next few days I will be posting more about how to care for your hair naturally, including recipes that may work for you.  I know a few of my readers may be thinking 'where's the soap stuff?  This is after all supposed to be the Soap Teacher'.  Yes there will be more soap stuff coming, eventually.  I just need to get a lot of this stuff online first and then we shall be concentrating on recipes rather than the theory behind it all.

Tuesday, 23 November 2010

Epsom Salts

 A Miracle Cure that Seems to Work!

Epsom salts or more accurately Magnesium Sulphate is the second-most abundant element in human cells and the fourth-most important positively charged ion in the body, so it's little wonder this low-profile mineral is so vital to good health and well being. Magnesium, the major component of Epsom Salts, also helps to regulate the activity of more than 325 enzymes and performs a vital role in orchestrating many bodily functions, from muscle control and electrical impulses to energy production and the elimination of harmful toxins.
Believe it or not but you can increase your magnesium levels from soaking in a bath enriched with magnesium sulphate crystals, commonly known as Epsom Salt. Information obtained from The Epsom Salts Council.


Finding epsom salts in reasonably large quantities is often tricky, the chemist usually sells it in 50g to 100g quantities, which is really too small for bath salt making.You should try Googling for a mail order company that sells it in 2kg packs or more - anything less is really not useful.

When I was a child, Epsom Salts were used in my home as a cure for the common cold. A very hot bath laced with a large handful of Salts was prepared, the idea being to immerse in it for as long as it was possible, with top-ups of very hot water to ensure that the temperature of the body was kept high. Copious sweating is the result. After a while the sick person is dried off and wrapped in thick blankets and put to bed with a warm bedpan for company and hot toddy (whisky, lemon and hot water... if you were an adult), the sweating no doubt continues and upon waking in the morning the cold has miraculously disappeared. 

We now know that extremely hot water is not good for the skin, it accelerates the aging process and should be avoided if at all possible. But certainly Epsom salts dissolved in the bath in large quantities will make you sweat copiously and I know in our house many a cold was cured in this way. (NB. It is not a good idea to use very heavy doses of salts in your bath if you suffer from high blood pressure or a heart condition, if in doubt check with your doctor). 

While increasing your magnesium levels, Epsom Salt also delivers sulphates, which are extremely difficult to get through food but which are readily absorbed through the skin. Sulphates serve a wide variety of functions in the body, playing a vital role in the formation of brain tissue, joint proteins and the mucin proteins that line the walls of the digestive tract. Sulphates also stimulate the pancreas to generate digestive enzymes and are believed to help detoxify the body's residue of medicines and environmental contaminants.

A variety of factors contributes to a magnesium deficiency. Intensive farming practices deplete magnesium from the soil, and magnesium is not a standard component in most fertilizers. Therefore, a diet that would have supplied enough magnesium a century ago may not supply enough today.

Of course it isn't simply the salts that work their magic on you. Full immersion of the body in water at least once a week is, in my opinion, a necessity for continuing good health. There are documented health benefits to full immersion (hence the continuing popularity of spa’s and resorts like the dead sea) however few of us have access to a bath large enough for this in our own homes. Discounting any medical benefits, bathing is mentally calming and restorative, a bath before bed helps aid restful sleep and promotes a feeling of well being. For more information on water and it's benefits take a look at the post on toning the skin.

It may be a tall tale that Archimedes leapt out of the bath shouting eureka ‘I’ve found it!’, but it is very understandable. How many really good ideas surface while lounging in a warm bath? It is a truly meditative environment which can effect not only the health of the body but also the soul – and sometimes it’s the only place to get any peace from our busy lives.



I do not agree with taking the mobile phone into the bathroom, I also do not think you should be able to see a television from the bathtub! A little restful music, or even thought provoking radio will not interrupt or spoil the occasion in any way and adding a beneficial substance to the water can only enhance the experience.

Use Epsom salts alone or mixed with appropriate essential oils to help with jetlag, vdu stress and general overwork and tiredness. Although the amount required is actually quite large. I have found that even very small amounts taken in a regular daily bath will have a cumulative effect. If you have any health concerns at all do check with your health professional.

Monday, 22 November 2010

The Mustard Bath

Among the Victorian guaranteed cures for many ailments was the mustard bath. It worked in a similar way to epsom salts by producing heat and sweat which helps to detoxify the body. Certainly if you are feeling cold and unwell a warm bath can be most welcome, the water need not be too hot, since the mustard draws the blood to the surface of the skin generating heat as it does so.

If a little eucalyptus essential oil is added it will also act as a decongestant for natural relief from that bunged up feeling. For some the mustard can be a touch irritating so if you have particularly sensitive skin I would avoid it. I also would not recommend it be used for children.

Mustard Bath Recipe

8 ounces Epsom Salts or common kitchen salt3 ounces Mustard Seed crushed to powder
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger infused in a small cup of warm water for 20 minutes.
5 drops of eucalyptus essential oil

Pound the mustard seed until reduced to a powder. Combine the mustard seed powder with the mineral salts and stir well. Add the eucalyptus essential oil to the warm water with the ginger and then mix in the dried ingredients.

Draw a warm bath and add the mustard mixture and stir well. Soak for a minimum of 15 minutes.
In general the heat from this type of bath will very quickly destroy any health benefits from essential oils but you may still find that the addition of something like eucalyptus or peppermint will help clear the nasal passages (albeit briefly) or simply use something that you enjoy to try and make the experience a little more pleasant.

After your bath it is essential to wrap up warm and take a hot drink with you to bed - and perhaps even a hot water bottle. you are supposed to feel very warm and even better if you are sweating. More often than not it is the raised temperature that kills off all the germs. As always.. if you are not otherwise in very good health do check with a qualified health practitioner before using the mustard bath recipe. If you are suffering with a really bad cold you have several options to help clear it out of your system quickly. A steam bath or Sauna is worth a try or you could give an Epsom Salts Bath a go. That's an easy recipe which I shall give you in the next post.

Wednesday, 10 November 2010

Bathing without Bubbles!

Bathing without Bubbles for the Health of your Skin

You may think that the old fashioned once a week bathing routine has gone by the wayside. No, no, no! Well perhaps it has in your house. Nowadays we mostly shower once a day using shower gel or soap and think of a bath as an occasional aid to de-stressing. It is great for de-stressing but should not be left for the occasional pamper session. The once a week bath needs to make a come-back and establish itself firmly into your skincare routine.

This post is called bathing without bubbles... what have I got against bubbles you may ask? Well in general nothing, but in particular, substances called sodium laureth sulphate or SLS or SLES can be very drying for the skin.    These chemicals can be synthesised from natural sources such as plants and vegetables, but have undergone a great deal of 'jiggery pokery' in the lab. This can make them fall into the grey area between natural and non natural - it's down to your definition of what natural means to you.
Indeed you can get some very mild surfactants nowadays that cause much less skin problems than Sodium Laureth Sulphate - but it is up to you to decide whether ethically you wish to use it, and how often to use it, depending upon it's effects on your skin.

 If you suffer from very dry skin and your usual product of choice in the daily shower is something containing sodium laureth sulphate, then you would benefit from changing to a natural soap. I have known people stop using body lotions altogether simply because they changed to a natural soap and found their skin simply did not need moisturising to the same degree. It only takes a two week trial to discover if it works for you. What have you got to lose?


For your once a week pamper session you have many choices, again depending upon your skin type or your preference.

Bath salts are considered a little old-fashioned, but like many old-fashioned things - they really do work.
It is very simple to make your own bath salts and very easy to tailor the ingredients to suit your skintype.


Bath Oil is very much back in favour due I think to the increase in dry skin - following on from the use of too many soap-detergents like shower gels. It is very easy to make yourself and need not break the bank. Bath Tea This is perhaps the oldest additive you can add to your bath. The choice of herbs and flowers is vast so you are only hindered by your knowledge. Easy to follow instructions to make bath tea coming soon.

Bath Fizzies Sometimes called bath bombs or fairy dust, these fun bath products are among the simplest to make and can be made from the most natural of ingredients. 

Mustard Bath Get rid of those cold and wet wintertime blues with the ultimate in kick starting your personal central heating. The mustard bath is alive and well... but only in winter!

Bath Milk You don't have to be Cleopatra to discover the amazing benefits of bathing in milk - and if you use powdered milk you don't need to worry about it going off either!

Bath Melts Perhaps less well known than bath bombs but just as easy to make.

More recipes for bathing without bubbles coming soon!

Monday, 8 November 2010

Useful Essential Oils by Skin type and Recipes for Blending

 Aromatherapy Recipes


Quantities to Use

All recipes are given in 'parts'... i.e. one part lavender to two parts patchouli etc... in this way you can scale up or down the size of your recipe to suit your own needs. You will find that most soap recipes contain between 1% and 3% (of the base oils) essential oil along with most other wash-off products such as shampoo or shower gels or bath oils. Products that will sit on the skin for long periods of time and/or be absorbed in total contain much less - usually 1% or less. Be guided by smell on this too. Strong smelling concoctions are used in smaller quantities than more delicate smelling ones, though neither should exceed the recommended dose.Aromatherapists work with so many drops per mls of base product. Some of the recipes reflect this, other's are brazenly simply for scent and will be used up to the maximum allowed by law.

Hint make up a very small quantity of the mixture and allow it to settle for 24 hours and then smell it. Now you can decide if you like it well enough to use in your product.

The Most Common Essential Oils and their uses (in brief)

1. LAVENDER Lavendula angustifoliaSuits all skintypes, acne, burns, inflammations, athletes foot, insect bites and stings, sunburn, wounds, depression, headache and stress-related conditions.
2. ROSE OTTO Rosa damascena
Thread veins, dry skin, eczema, poor circulation, depression and stress-related conditions.
3. BERGAMOT Citrus bergamia
Anxiety, depression, uplifting emotions. Caution: not to be used prior to exposure to sunlight, unless you purchase Bergamot FCF which is bergaptene free.
4. BLACK PEPPER Piper nigrum
Muscular aches and pains, poor circulation, mental fatigue. Caution: Avoid if you have sensitive skin
5. CEDARWOOD Cedrus atlantica
Acne, exzema, psoriasis, oily skin and hair, hair loss, dandruff, nervous tension and stress-related disorders. Caution: Not to be used during pregnancy
6. CYPRESS Cupressus sempervirens
Oily skin conditions, excessive perspiration, vricose veins, wounds, fluid retention.
7. EUCALYPTUS Eucalyptus globulus
Skin infections and wounds, muscular aches, colds and flu, hedaches, mental fatigue.
8. FRANKINCENSE Boswelliaa carteri
Mature skin, scars, wounds, anxiety and stress.
9. GALBANUM Ferula galbaniflua
Acne, scars, wounds, inflamed skin, muscular aches, nervouus tension and stress-related disorders. Caution: Not to be used during pregnancy
10. GERANIUM Pelargonium graveolens
Congested skin, poor circulation, dermatitus, eczema, burns, head lice, cellulite, nervous tension.
11. GRAPEFRUIT Citrus X paradisi
Cellulite, depression, nervous exhaustion, colds and flu. Caution: Do not use prior to exposure to sunlight
12. JASMINE Jasminum officinale
Nervous exhaustion, mature skin, depression, stress-related conditions.

13.JUNIPER Juniperus communisAcne, eczema, oily skin conditions, cellulite, hair loss. Caution: Not to be used during pregnancy
14.LEMON Citrus limonum
Oily skin conditions, cellulite, poor circulation, colds and flu, depression. Caution: Do not use prior to exposure to sunlight
15. MANDARIN Citrus reticulata
Stretch marks, cellulite, digestive problems, insomnia.Caution: Do not use prior to exposure to sunlight
16. MARJORAM Origanum marjorana
Bruises, muscular aches, pms, migraine, colds and flu. Caution: Not to be used during pregnancy
17. MYRRH Comminphora myrrha
Athletes foot, maature skin, wounds, respiratory disorders, nervous tension. Caution: Not to be used during pregnancy
18. NEROLI Citrus aurantium var amara
Most skin types, stretch marks, poor circulation, anxiety, stress-related disorders.
19. PALMAROSA Cymbopogon martinii var. martinii
Acne, minor skin infections, scars, nervous exhaustion.
20. PATCHOULI Pogostemon cablin
Acne, athletes foot & fungal infections, dndruff.
21. PEPPERMINT Mentha piperita
Cold and flu, fainting, headache, migraine, mental fatigue. Caution: May irritate sensitive skin.
22. PETITGRAIN Citrus aurantium var. amara
Oily skin conditions, stress-related disorders.
23. ROSEMARY Rosmarinus officinalis
Dandruff, oily skin and hair, head lice, muscular aches, nervous exhaustion and mental fatigue. Caution: to be avoided if you suffer from epilepsy.
24. SANDALWOOD Santalum album
Dry skin conditions, Oily skin conditions, acne, depression, insomnia.
25. VETIVER Vetiveria zizanoides
Acne, oily skin conditions, wounds, muscular aches.
26. YLANG YLANG Cananga odorta var. genuina
Promotes hair growth, high blood pressure, palpitations, nervous tension.
27. CHAMOMILE ROMAN Anthemis nobilis
Acne, allergies, eczema, inflamed skin, burns, stress-related conditions.
28. GINGER Zingiber officinale
Aches and pains, poor circulation, nausea, travel sickness, nervous exhaustion.

This is most definitely not an exhaustive list of essential oils. But the 28 listed are more than enough for any amateur cosmetic formulator. If, however you wish to go on to developing aromatherapy recipes or perfumes you my find you need a few more. For increasing your aromatherapy knowledge with a view to alternative therapy you would be advised to seek out further in-depth information or go on a college course.

 Useful Essential Oils by Skintype

Dry Skin Roman Chamomile, Geranium, Lavender, Patchouli, Rose Otto.Oily Skin Cedarwood, Lemon, Ylang Ylang, Lavender.
Mature Skin Clary Sage, Frankincense, Rose Otto, Lavender.
Anti-Aging Clary Sage, Frankincense, Lemon, Rose Otto, Lavender.
Sensitive Skin Rose Otto, Lavender, Roman Chamomile.
Hair Care Cedarwood, Clary Sage, Rosemary, Lavender, Lemon, Juniper, Ylang Ylang, Tea Tree, Peppermint.
Nail Care Geranium, Lavender, Tea Tree, Lavender, Tea Tree.

The following Aromatherapy Recipes have been formulated primarily for their skincare benefit.

Aromatherapy Recipes for Normal SkinRoman Chamomile = 1 part
Geranium = 1 part
Lavender = 3 parts
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Lavender = 3 parts
Neroli = 2 parts
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Aromatherapy Recipes for Dry Skin
Rose Otto = 1 part
Sandalwood = 3 parts
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Roman chamomile = 1 part
Lavender = 4 parts
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Aromatherapy Recipes for Oily Skin
Frankincense = 2 parts
Cedarwood = 3 parts
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Patchouli = 1 part
Frankincense = 1 part
Lavender = 2 parts
Aromatherapy Recipes for Combination Skin
Frankincense = 1 part
Lavender = 2 parts
Geranium = 1 part
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Roman Chamomile = 2 parts
Geranium = 2 parts
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Aromatherapy Recipes for Sensitive Skin
Rose Otto = 1 part
Lavender = 1 part
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Aromatherapy Recipes for Thread Veins
Roman Chamomile = 1 part
Neroli = 1 part
Gernium = 1 part
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Cypress = 2 parts
Frankincense = 1 part
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Aromatherapy Recipes for Anti-aging
Sandalwood = 4 parts
Frankincense = 2 parts
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Myrrh = 1 part
Rose Otto = 1 part
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Neroli = 2 parts
Geranium = 1 part
Myrrh = 1 part

The combinations of essential oils to make aromatherapy recipes are pretty much boundless. Especially if you are unconcerned with the therapy side of things and want to concentrate on making a delightful scent - which in itself will have beneficial results simply because of being enjoyable.

So... why don't we start using some of these recipes.  How about a Bath Melt?  Don't know what that is?  Well you better come back for the next post then!