Useful Essential Oils by Skin type and Recipes for Blending

 Aromatherapy Recipes

Quantities to Use

All recipes are given in 'parts'... i.e. one part lavender to two parts patchouli etc... in this way you can scale up or down the size of your recipe to suit your own needs. You will find that most soap recipes contain between 1% and 3% (of the base oils) essential oil along with most other wash-off products such as shampoo or shower gels or bath oils. Products that will sit on the skin for long periods of time and/or be absorbed in total contain much less - usually 1% or less. Be guided by smell on this too. Strong smelling concoctions are used in smaller quantities than more delicate smelling ones, though neither should exceed the recommended dose.Aromatherapists work with so many drops per mls of base product. Some of the recipes reflect this, other's are brazenly simply for scent and will be used up to the maximum allowed by law.

Hint make up a very small quantity of the mixture and allow it to settle for 24 hours and then smell it. Now you can decide if you like it well enough to use in your product.

The Most Common Essential Oils and their uses (in brief)

1. LAVENDER Lavendula angustifoliaSuits all skintypes, acne, burns, inflammations, athletes foot, insect bites and stings, sunburn, wounds, depression, headache and stress-related conditions.
2. ROSE OTTO Rosa damascena
Thread veins, dry skin, eczema, poor circulation, depression and stress-related conditions.
3. BERGAMOT Citrus bergamia
Anxiety, depression, uplifting emotions. Caution: not to be used prior to exposure to sunlight, unless you purchase Bergamot FCF which is bergaptene free.
4. BLACK PEPPER Piper nigrum
Muscular aches and pains, poor circulation, mental fatigue. Caution: Avoid if you have sensitive skin
5. CEDARWOOD Cedrus atlantica
Acne, exzema, psoriasis, oily skin and hair, hair loss, dandruff, nervous tension and stress-related disorders. Caution: Not to be used during pregnancy
6. CYPRESS Cupressus sempervirens
Oily skin conditions, excessive perspiration, vricose veins, wounds, fluid retention.
7. EUCALYPTUS Eucalyptus globulus
Skin infections and wounds, muscular aches, colds and flu, hedaches, mental fatigue.
8. FRANKINCENSE Boswelliaa carteri
Mature skin, scars, wounds, anxiety and stress.
9. GALBANUM Ferula galbaniflua
Acne, scars, wounds, inflamed skin, muscular aches, nervouus tension and stress-related disorders. Caution: Not to be used during pregnancy
10. GERANIUM Pelargonium graveolens
Congested skin, poor circulation, dermatitus, eczema, burns, head lice, cellulite, nervous tension.
11. GRAPEFRUIT Citrus X paradisi
Cellulite, depression, nervous exhaustion, colds and flu. Caution: Do not use prior to exposure to sunlight
12. JASMINE Jasminum officinale
Nervous exhaustion, mature skin, depression, stress-related conditions.

13.JUNIPER Juniperus communisAcne, eczema, oily skin conditions, cellulite, hair loss. Caution: Not to be used during pregnancy
14.LEMON Citrus limonum
Oily skin conditions, cellulite, poor circulation, colds and flu, depression. Caution: Do not use prior to exposure to sunlight
15. MANDARIN Citrus reticulata
Stretch marks, cellulite, digestive problems, insomnia.Caution: Do not use prior to exposure to sunlight
16. MARJORAM Origanum marjorana
Bruises, muscular aches, pms, migraine, colds and flu. Caution: Not to be used during pregnancy
17. MYRRH Comminphora myrrha
Athletes foot, maature skin, wounds, respiratory disorders, nervous tension. Caution: Not to be used during pregnancy
18. NEROLI Citrus aurantium var amara
Most skin types, stretch marks, poor circulation, anxiety, stress-related disorders.
19. PALMAROSA Cymbopogon martinii var. martinii
Acne, minor skin infections, scars, nervous exhaustion.
20. PATCHOULI Pogostemon cablin
Acne, athletes foot & fungal infections, dndruff.
21. PEPPERMINT Mentha piperita
Cold and flu, fainting, headache, migraine, mental fatigue. Caution: May irritate sensitive skin.
22. PETITGRAIN Citrus aurantium var. amara
Oily skin conditions, stress-related disorders.
23. ROSEMARY Rosmarinus officinalis
Dandruff, oily skin and hair, head lice, muscular aches, nervous exhaustion and mental fatigue. Caution: to be avoided if you suffer from epilepsy.
24. SANDALWOOD Santalum album
Dry skin conditions, Oily skin conditions, acne, depression, insomnia.
25. VETIVER Vetiveria zizanoides
Acne, oily skin conditions, wounds, muscular aches.
26. YLANG YLANG Cananga odorta var. genuina
Promotes hair growth, high blood pressure, palpitations, nervous tension.
27. CHAMOMILE ROMAN Anthemis nobilis
Acne, allergies, eczema, inflamed skin, burns, stress-related conditions.
28. GINGER Zingiber officinale
Aches and pains, poor circulation, nausea, travel sickness, nervous exhaustion.

This is most definitely not an exhaustive list of essential oils. But the 28 listed are more than enough for any amateur cosmetic formulator. If, however you wish to go on to developing aromatherapy recipes or perfumes you my find you need a few more. For increasing your aromatherapy knowledge with a view to alternative therapy you would be advised to seek out further in-depth information or go on a college course.

 Useful Essential Oils by Skintype

Dry Skin Roman Chamomile, Geranium, Lavender, Patchouli, Rose Otto.Oily Skin Cedarwood, Lemon, Ylang Ylang, Lavender.
Mature Skin Clary Sage, Frankincense, Rose Otto, Lavender.
Anti-Aging Clary Sage, Frankincense, Lemon, Rose Otto, Lavender.
Sensitive Skin Rose Otto, Lavender, Roman Chamomile.
Hair Care Cedarwood, Clary Sage, Rosemary, Lavender, Lemon, Juniper, Ylang Ylang, Tea Tree, Peppermint.
Nail Care Geranium, Lavender, Tea Tree, Lavender, Tea Tree.

The following Aromatherapy Recipes have been formulated primarily for their skincare benefit.

Aromatherapy Recipes for Normal SkinRoman Chamomile = 1 part
Geranium = 1 part
Lavender = 3 parts
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Lavender = 3 parts
Neroli = 2 parts
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Aromatherapy Recipes for Dry Skin
Rose Otto = 1 part
Sandalwood = 3 parts
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Roman chamomile = 1 part
Lavender = 4 parts
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Aromatherapy Recipes for Oily Skin
Frankincense = 2 parts
Cedarwood = 3 parts
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Patchouli = 1 part
Frankincense = 1 part
Lavender = 2 parts
Aromatherapy Recipes for Combination Skin
Frankincense = 1 part
Lavender = 2 parts
Geranium = 1 part
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Roman Chamomile = 2 parts
Geranium = 2 parts
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Aromatherapy Recipes for Sensitive Skin
Rose Otto = 1 part
Lavender = 1 part
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Aromatherapy Recipes for Thread Veins
Roman Chamomile = 1 part
Neroli = 1 part
Gernium = 1 part
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Cypress = 2 parts
Frankincense = 1 part
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Aromatherapy Recipes for Anti-aging
Sandalwood = 4 parts
Frankincense = 2 parts
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Myrrh = 1 part
Rose Otto = 1 part
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Neroli = 2 parts
Geranium = 1 part
Myrrh = 1 part

The combinations of essential oils to make aromatherapy recipes are pretty much boundless. Especially if you are unconcerned with the therapy side of things and want to concentrate on making a delightful scent - which in itself will have beneficial results simply because of being enjoyable.

So... why don't we start using some of these recipes.  How about a Bath Melt?  Don't know what that is?  Well you better come back for the next post then!

Essential Oils? Are they really Essential?

What are Essential Oils?

Essential oils are chemically very complicated. The substance is not really an oil at all. It is a volatile extraction from organic matter. If you spill some sweet almond oil onto your best blouse, you are going to have an oil stain... and it could be difficult to get it out in the wash. If you spill essential oil, it evaporates into the air leaving no sign that it was there. Mind you some of them are very dark coloured and I haven't actually tested those, in theory it should be the same, but certainly a lavender or a rose simply evaporates into the air leaving no stain whatsoever.

Essential oils contain within them the 'essence' of the plant from which they were extracted. Mother Nature has so cleverly provided us with, not only the illness, but the cure too, and sometimes both are combined in the same plant. The skill of the aromatherapist, as with the herbalist, is in understanding which plants and flowers do what.

Many of our modern day medicines were originally synthesised from plants, aspirin for example is found in the bark of the willow tree, nowadays of course aspirin is synthesised in the laboratory... but in it's natural form, it is much more complex and it's effects upon the body perhaps more subtle. Plants are a very complex concoction of chemicals which in their entirety we are unable to reproduce synthetically, so we tend to isolate the chemicals that we believe hold the cures... and concentrate on making our modern drugs from these. Where aromatherapy wins out over modern medicine is in harnessing the therapeutic value of the WHOLE plant. However... the extent of the therapeutic value is still not fully understood - and little in the way of serious research is done into this field - apart from studies by aromatherapists themselves, science and modern medicine is so hung up on the synthetic that almost no serious scientific study has been done.  Exceptions to the rule are evident in the form Mme Tisserand but I speak in relative terms when you compare with the amount of research done on conventional medicines.

The most important thing to remember, if you are not an aromatherapist, is that not all natural things are GOOD for you. You would not wish to play fast and loose with a Belladonna tea. You should therefore not be Gung Ho with the essential oils of plants and flowers.

If we are still a little in the dark about the full extent of these oils therapeutic values then how do we know...

How (and if) Essential Oils Work?

At first thought how essential oils work is a bit of a mystery. But then if you think back to your own experiences involving smell you will very soon see how it is possible. Have you ever smelled something that instantly took you away to a time in the past or a place you have visited and forgotten all about? The memory becomes very powerful when evoked by a smell. Or perhaps you have comforting feelings when you smell the perfume your granny wore... or home baked bread. Equally smells that you dislike can make you feel anxious or nervous... the smell of the dentists perhaps, or hospitals.
Smells work in this way by stimulating the olfactory nerves at the back of the nose which send messages to the olfactory centre of your brain. This particular area of the brain is responsible for our basic drives such as sex, hunger and thirst. It is also where the pituitary gland and hypothalmus are sited. These two regulate hormone release - which is connected with the control of many bodily functions along with emotions and memories. This is the short and simple guide to how aromatherapy (the inhalation of organic essences) can have a direct affect on our physical well being. When massaging with essential oils they are absorbed directly into the body and into the bloodstream. Likewise if you have used them in a homemade beauty recipe, a moisturiser for example, you are introducing small quantities of essential plant extract into your body - perhaps on a daily basis. It is important therefore to get it right... or at least...not to get it wrong.

Aromatherapy Soap?

I have certainly used this term myself when selling natural soap which included essential oils. I was however always quick to point out that there was no proof that essential oils in soap will have any therapeutic value at all. Why? Well firstly, soap is a wash off product. We are basically waterproof anyway and the whole function of the soap is that it will latch onto the dirt and oil on our bodies and whip it away down the drain.
Secondly, the soap making process is very harsh. We are using Sodium Hydroxide and quite high temperatures - over which we may not have any control... especially if your soap gels in the mould.

If the essential oil does not burn off during the initial soap making process (and this is why we use such large quantities in soap making - sometimes up to 3%), sometimes the finished smell is not quite what you expected. It has been altered by the process. If it is going to have any therapy value it will be in the smell - but I can't be sure that it the end result is what an aromatherapist would expect from that particular oil.
So, for soap making I always choose cheaper essential oils. This does not mean that my soap is a lesser product. It's a question of raw ingredients fit for purpose rather than of quality. Similarly if I am making a night cream for my mother-in-law I will always use an organic essential oil from a reputable supplier.

And this brings me to the essential oils suppliers. It is very easy for us to be fobbed off by poor quality oils sold at premium prices and not to know the difference. How would we know the difference? I have known aromatherapists rave about a particular oil until they smelled the same oil from another supplier... and even then... plants are natural things... what they do one year, they may not the next. Each batch of oil will be subtly different from the last. And the difference between lavender from different suppliers can be astounding! You need to find an essential oil supplier whom you trust and be guided by his/her advice as to purchasing the correct product... i.e. tell them that you are making soap, or that you are wanting to use it in a massage bar (Oooh yes, massage bars - recipes coming soon!) and they will be better placed to advise you which grade of oil to buy. Hint If you are unsure, order a very small quantity, the smallest you can and then be guided by your nose, if you like it... ask for a bigger quantity from the same batch.

Water Water Everywhere...

PLAIN WATER, HYDROSOLS AND FLOWER WATERS

Knowledge about hydrosols and flower waters is overshadowed by that of essential oils, yet their contribution to our skincare cabinet should not be underestimated. A hydrosol or flower water is simply the water extracted from the plant or flower during steam distillation to produce the essential oil. The water smells quite strongly of the plant - sometimes more so than the essential oil.
The chemical make up of the flower water is often remarkably different from the essential oil and the therapy value is not always the same as the oil either. Sometimes it could be argued that the therapy value of the water is more.
"Since the chemical make up of the human body is quite definitely a large percentage of water it is often felt that there is a resonance within the body to using an appropriate water for healing purposes."
The French use flower and plant waters and tinctures internally for health and well being - a practice that used to be common in western medicine over a hundred years ago but which has fallen out of favour in preference to more synthetic chemical-based medicines.
Yet it is obvious to everyone the difference in the quality of water that you use, not only for drinking, but bathing and washing your hair, has on your appearance. Some areas of the world are famed specifically for their water. It is often the first thing we notice when travelling to another area, the water will taste different, feel softer or harsher from what we are used to back home.


The art of bathing has been lost in many western cultures and this is a shame. Immersing your entire body in water is very therapeutic and as part of a holistic approach to curing illness called phytotherapy. Here we are not so much intent on curing illness as in maintaining health... the health of your skin. And I would very much recommend the regular use of hydrosols as part of a healthy lifestyle.
Hydrosols or flower waters can be bought from most essential oil suppliers. You can find Rose water in the supermarket but you will usually find that it contains a preservative of some kind... it's your choice  whether you want to use this or not, the preservative is considered safe for inclusion in food but it's a personal choice.

The range of hydrosols available in the UK is quite limited in comparason to the amount of essential oils but in other countries such as France hydrosols are much more common, and taken internally for health benefits too.

Types of Flower Water suitable for use as a Toner

Chamaemelum nobile - Roman ChamomileRoman chamomile is the number one choice for use with children and babycare. It can even be used straight from birth - which I do not advise for essential oils or soap (even if natural) or any other preparatory products whether you have made them yourself or bought them. Achamomile hydrosol sprinkled into baby's first bath water is a wonderful welcome to the world. But I digress... as a toner it is great for calming rashes, for sufferers of acne, rosacea, heat rashes or general redness of the skin.
Do not use it undiluted if you have a tendency to very dry skin or for wind burns - due to it's acidity it can exacerbate these conditions - however you could dilute it with spring water.

Citrus aurantium var.amara - Neroli/Orange Blossom
This flower water is perfect for a combination of oily and sensitive skins. Can be useful for acne sufferers or combined with rhassoul mud for a perfect teenage face mask.  Since it is very astringent Do not use on very dry or mature skins unless you dilute it with spring water or lavender or rose flower water.

Hamamelis virginiana - Witch Hazel
Do not be tempted by the witch hazel sold in the chemists shop... these are usually laced with alcohol and are extremely drying to the skin. The real witch hazel is amazing stuff, and not so harsh. It reduces swellings, itching, rashes and scaling of the skin. It is very good for soothing excema and psoriasis and will heal cracked or blistered skin. It is a powerful anti-inflammatory.  Witch hazel is very good for mature and dry skins and is considered one of the most useful waters in the fight against signs of aging.

Lavendula angustifolia - Lavender
Good for all skintypes and gentle enough to be used undiluted. Use it with damaged or fragile skin and can be used alone as a light cleanser. Reduces inflammation associated with shaving if sprayed onto the skin both before and after the shave. Can be used with children and I find it a perfect re-fresher for long plane journeys as well as quick first aid for bites or stings.

Melaleuca alternifolia - Tea Tree
Tea Tree hydrosols are antiseptic, anti-fungal and antibacterial. It's a great weapon to have in the first aid box for cleansing wounds (always dilute it), scrapes and fungal problems such as athletes foot or fungal nail disease. It has been suggested that it could be used for acne but I consider it to be too harsh, however if you have a tendency to infected pimples then you could dilute it with spring water - everyone is different and if lavender water is not strong enough for your needs then tea tree may well do the job.

Mentha piperita - Peppermint
Peppermint water is very refreshing and stimulating to use. It is also very useful for inflamed acne or helping to keep the scalp free of lice (but not a sure-fire cure). It is also effective for calming allergic reactions and sunburn. It was often used in France to enhance the bustline... (? oh those French!!) simply spritz regularly (apparently).

Rosa damascena - Rose
Good to use for any skin type, and smells wonderful - provided you find a good supplier. Especially good for mature or dry skin types as it is a humectant, attracting moisture to the skin. Only mildly astringent. Is very good added to face masks for mature or dry skin. I would suggest that you don't confuse the hydrosol with the rose water available in the supermarket... the two are very different.

There should be hydrosols for every essential oil, however it is very unlikely that you will find them. The therapeutic effects of the hydrosol are not always the same as those attributed to the essential oil. If you are interested in hydrosols or flower waters and phytotherapy then I can recommend the book Hydrosols The Next Aromatherapy by Suzanne Catty

Aromatherapy Soap?

I have certainly used this term myself when selling natural soap which included essential oils. I was however always quick to point out that there was no proof that essential oils in soap will have any therapeutic value at all. Why?

Well firstly, soap is a wash off product. We are basically waterproof anyway and the whole function of the soap is that it will latch onto the dirt and oil on our bodies and whip it away down the drain.

Secondly, the soap making process is very harsh. We are using Sodium Hydroxide and quite high temperatures - over which we may not have any control... especially if your soap gels in the mould. If the essential oil does not burn off during the initial soap making process (and this is why we use such large quantities in soap making - sometimes up to 3% of the base oils), the final smell is not always quite what you expected. It has been altered by the process. If it is going to have any therapy value it will be in the smell - but I can't be sure that it is what an aromatherapist would expect.

So for soap making I always choose cheaper essential oils. This does not mean that my soap is a lesser product. It's a question of raw ingredients fit for purpose rather than of quality. Similarly if I am making a night cream for my mother-in-law I will always use an organic essential oil from a reputable supplier.

And this brings me to the essential oils suppliers. It is very easy for us to be fobbed off by poor quality oils sold at premium prices and not to know the difference. How would we know the difference? I have known aromatherapists rave about a particular oil until they smelled the same oil from another supplier... and even then... plants are natural things... what they do one year, they don't the next.

Each batch of oil will be subtly different from the last. And the difference between lavender from different suppliers can be astounding! You need to find an essential oil supplier whom you trust and be guided by his/her advice as to purchasing the correct product... i.e. tell them that you are making soap, or that you are wanting to use it in a massage bar and they will be better placed to advise you which grade of oil to buy. Hint If you are unsure, order a very small quantity, the smallest you can and then be guided by your nose, if you like it... ask for a bigger quantity from the same batch.

ABOVE ALL, BE GUIDED BY YOUR NOSE!

This is very important.YOU must be the judge. Your nose must be the one to say if it is good or not. Don't worry if you think you have a poor sense of smell. The more you use your nose to smell different things the better it gets at smelling. Do not be tempted to use more than the recommended amount in your product. And be aware that some oils have side effects (e.g. making your skin more susceptible to sunburn) and these should be taken into consideration. But most of all... do lots of sniffing and have fun.

Suggested Essential Oil Blends for Soap

strong or Masculine Blends

Ginger = 3 parts

Frankincense = 8 parts

Bergamot = 8 parts

Juniper = 2 parts

Geranium = 3 parts

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Cypress = 2 parts

Juniper = 4 parts

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Mandarin = 2 parts

Juniper = 3 parts

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Delicate non-flowery Blends

Sandalwood = 2 parts

Rosewood = 3 parts

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Peppermint = 2 parts

Lavender = 3 parts

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Cedarwood = 2 parts

Lavender = 3 parts

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Geranium = 4 parts

Patchouli = 1 part

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Feminine Scents

Ylang Ylang = 2 parts

Geranium = 3 parts

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Shampoo Bar Blends

Rosemary = 6 parts

Lavender = 4 parts

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Lavender = 6 parts

Geranium = 4 parts

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Tea Tree = 2 parts

Rosemary = 4 parts

Lavender = 4 parts

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In general the citrus oils do not hold well in natural soap - you can try anchoring the light citrus smell by the inclusion of a more base note oil - however this then changes the citrus smell somewhat. If you want a true citrus smelling soap you will need to look at using a fragrance oil. See my post on Fragrance Oils vs Essential Oils. Sometimes you can get the volatile top note citrus smell to linger for longer by anchoring it to a deeper note such as the following: (Mind you they no longer smell like true citrus scents)

Orange = 4 parts

Lavender = 4 parts

Geranium = 2 parts

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Lemon = 4 parts

Cedarwood = 2 parts

Cypress = 4 parts

The type of base oils and the method you use for soap making will have an effect upon the final scent of your soap. This is all part of the fun of making soap.