Cleopatra's Goat Milk Bath

Bathing in Goat Milk

How decadent is that? Give yourself the Cleopatra experience by mixing up your very own goat milk powder for the bath. It's easy and it helps with enumerable skin ailments. Excema is most definitely eased by gentle regular bathing in goat milk - you might like to try drinking the goat milk too if you suffer particularly badly with this. A goat milk natural soap is also a good idea, if you don't want to make your own natural soap there are a number of small hand made soap companies who specialise in goat milk products.

The fat content of goat milk is particularly high and adding it to your bath is very good for improving the texture and condition of dry or mature skin. Although it is easier kept in it's dry form you could simply pour fresh milk into the bath. Add a couple of drops of an appropriate essential oil and off you go! But you can improve on that quite a bit.

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Luxury Bath Milk

Ingredients100grams Goat Milk Powder
50grams Epsom Salts
100grams Sodium Bicarbonate
2ml in total Essential Oils (or blends) of your choice. 

Method
Combine all ingredients together in a bowl and mix very well with a wire whisk or spoon. The better you mix the better the end product will be. In fact, mix some more, you really can't mix enough. Once you feel that the essential oils have been well encorporated pop the mixture into a clean, dry apothecary jar or suitable container.

Leave it for 24 hours to let the essential oils settle and then use a couple of tablespoonfuls per normal size bath. After soaking in the bath for at least 15 minutes your skin will feel beautifully baby soft and supple.

Of all my bath powder recipes this is the one that got me the most compliments from friends and relatives... and it's so easy to do!

Bath Oils with Dispersant

Using A Dispersant with your Bath Oil

A dispersant? What is that? Well, you know when you buy a bath oil and it looks milky when you pour it into the bath and feels soft on your skin but not greasy in quite the same way as oil alone. That is because a dispersant or emulsifier has been added to the bath oil.

These emulsifiers are not 'natural straight off the tree' ingredients. They are also not natures own emulsifier - bees wax. They have been synthesised in the laboratory and can include natural ingredients but are not generally thought of as 'natural'.

As such, they tend to find favour with those people who are not so strict about using all-natural ingredients, but if they are a step too far for you, then simply stick to the bath oil recipes in my previous posts.

The dispersant that I am using here is not the only one available. There are others, suppliers are usually only too happy to recommend usage levels for their products, so you can substitute another brand - usually with successful results.


The dispersant (liquid emulsifier) that I am going to use is called Polysorbate 80. It is not a totally natural ingredient. It's constituents are sorbitol, ethylene oxide & oleic acid (polyoxyethylene-20 sorbitan monooleate). Only the oleic acid is derived from vegetable oil.
Now don't be frightened by the chemical names... everything in nature has a chemical name... after all if I said it was oleic acid you would wonder what on earth that was wouldn't you? Oleic acid is a constituent of some vegetable oils.  Do not assume that because it contains synthetic ingredients, they are bad for you... similarly you shouldn't assume that all natural ingredients are good for you.  I do intend to do a post at some stage about the most commonly found cosmetic ingredients and how they fall into the natural or not category... but you will have to bear with me... these things take time!

The dispersant (polysorbate 80) helps the oil to combine with the bath water. It 'disperses' the oil  evenly through the water which helps it to reach all the parts of your body. The water looks milky and when you come out of the bath and pat your skin dry you do get the lovely soft feel of the oil but you don't get the heavy or tacky drag of neat oil on your skin.

The choice to use this ingredient is, I suppose down to where you personally draw the line.

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Rose Geranium & Melissa Dispersant Bath Oil

Ingredients200 ml Avocado Oil
10ml Polysorbate 80 (you may need to Google for a supplier
near you)
1ml Vitamin E
3ml Rose Geranium Essential Oil
2ml Melissa Essential Oil

Method
In a clean sterilised glass container mix together the avocado oil and the polysorbate 80. The polysorbate 80 does not dissolve into the oil so it needs to be very well mixed through - even though you may not see it because it is the same colour as your oil. Next add the essential oils and again mix very thoroughly. The trick to successful outcomes is always in the mixing. Finally add the vitamin E. You may find using a disposable syringe for the vitamin e a good idea as often it is very gloopy and can be difficult to measure. I use disposable syringes for measuring nearly all my small ingredients by volume... of course if you are measuring by weight... you need a very accurate small set of scales... try jewelry scales... they work really well.  Plastic disposable syringes are available online from some pharmaceutical companies.

Decant the mixture into a nice bottle and label it carefully, let it rest for 24 hours before using for the first time. To use: give it a shake (just in case any of the mixture has separated... remember you may not be able to see the polysorbate because it is the same colour as the oil, before pouring a couple of teasponfuls into an average size bath. Get in and enjoy! Provided you do not get any water into the bath oil bottle you should not need to use a preservative in this mixture.

Bath Oils

Make your own Luxury Bath Oil

Making your own bath oil is easy. Very easy. At it's most basic, a bath oil is simply a small quantity of oil poured into your bath. Done!
 
Yes, I know, as soon as you get in, all the oil sticks to the edge of the bath and stays there! Well we can do something about that... but lets keep it basic for the moment and then move on from there.

If you have chronic dry skin, there is nothing more wonderful than an oily bath. The combination of the warm water and the oil is amazing. If you keep massaging the oily water over your skin while in the bath, when you step out (carefully of course because the bath is slippery) your skin glistens. It's lovely! And it's so simple.

And don't think that you need to spend a lot of money on special oils. Sunflower oil from the cooking oils section of the supermarket will work perfectly well and so will rapeseed. Add a little lavender essential oil to it and you have a product as good as any you can buy. It really can be as simple as that.

Lets take the simple oil one step further. What if you want to infuse a medicinal herb in the oil first? Yep you can do that. Make sure that you know exactly which herb you are going to use and remember that it is important to correctly identify the herb since mother nature gives us nasty stuff as well as nice. Directions for macerating herbs in oil will be find in my previous posts under the herbs label.


If you choose an aromatic herb or flower to macerate you will get some scent in your bath oil too. But it is usually very delicate - which is fine but if you want a little more of an impact then combine your macerated oil with a complimentary essential oil blend. It is very important to make sure that you dry the herb or flower prior to macerating. Otherwise the water content in the plant ends up in your bath oil where it can start to breed germs and bacteria. Not good.

Here are a couple of basic bath oil recipes to get you started:

Rose Geranium & Ylang Ylang
Ingredients
250ml Sunflower Oil
3ml Rose Geranium Essential Oil
2ml Ylang Ylang Essential Oil

One pretty bottle (can be recycled if you wash well and sterilise first - either boiling for 5 minutes or use Milton baby sterilising tablets. Make sure it is perfectly dry before decanting the oil.


Method
In a clean glass jug or bowl mix the oil and essential oils together. Pour into a clean bottle and label. Leave for at least 24 hours before using. A teaspoonful or two is enough for an average sized bath. Don't forget to clean the bath really well when you are finished as essential oils (in any product, not just this one) can discolour your bath over time.

To Vary
Choose a different blend of essential oils. There are suggestions for essential oil blends here in some of my previous posts.



Grapefruit and Lavender Bath Oil


Ingredients
250 ml Sweet Almond Oil
2 ml Grapefruit Essential Oil
3 ml Lavender Essential Oil

One pretty bottle (can be recycled if you wash well and sterilise first - either boiling for 5 minutes or use Milton baby sterilising tablets. Make sure it is perfectly dry before decanting the oil)

Method
In a clean glass jug or bowl mix the oil and essential oils together. Pour into a clean bottle and label. Leave for at least 24 hours before using. A teaspoonful or two is enough for an average sized bath. Don't forget to clean the bath really well when you are finished as essential oils (in any product, not just this one) can discolour your bath over time.  Decorate your bottle with a spray of lavender tied with raffia and you have a wonderfully unique gift.

To Vary
Choose a different blend of essential oils. Choose a different vegetable oil.

Next Post:  Using a dispersant to blend your bath oil - no more oil stuck to the sides of the bath.

Shea Butter for the Bath

Shea Butter Bath Soak for Dry Skin

This is truly the height of luxury and extravagance as well as being the most glorious gourmet feast for dry, parched skin!
Ingredients
100g Organic Shea Butter (the shea butter should be a pale cream to white colour and smell slightly nutty as well as being pliable or crumbly in texture)

250g Sea Salt Flakes (if you can only buy the salt in large chunks then you will need to whizz it for a while in a food processor or liquidiser in order to grind it a little finer)

5ml Rose Otto Essential Oil

1 tsp of dried rose petals ground to a powder (combine them with the sea salt in the food processor or use a pestle and morter to get the petals as fine as possible). This is optional

Method
Using a metal spoon begin by creaming the shea butter in a bowl until it is very creamy in texture. Add the salt a little at a time along with the rose otto essential oil. Continue to cream it together until all of the salt and shea butter are combined. Decant into a jar and allow to rest for at least 24 hours before use. Don't forget to include the ingredients on the label along with instructions for use. i.e.  Crumble a teaspoon or two under a running tap into a normal size bath of warm water. Soak for at least 15 minutes and then pat the skin dry. Be careful on exiting the bath as the shea butter could make it slippery.

To Vary  Any type of salt or combination of salts could be used and any essential oil or blend of essential oil. For suggestions of blends of essential oils go to the Aromatherapy and related pages.

Detox Bath Salts

The detoxifying effect of epsom salts is truly amazing - although to work really well you need to use very large quantities of epsom salt (and this should not be done if you suffer from high blood pressure), even a small amount used regularly seems to have a cumulative effect.
Ingredients
500g Epsom Salts
zest of one unwaxed lemon (optional)
5ml Rose Geranium essential oil
5ml Lemon essential oil
1 tsp of Calendula petals (Pot Marigold petals) (optional)

Method
Mix the zest of the lemon into the epsom salts in a glass or china bowl. Add the calendula petals if you are using these. Combine the essential oils and mix with a wire whisk into the salt. Mix really well - the art of good bath salt making is in the mixing.

Decant the salts into a jar or container and decorate and label. Don't forget to put the ingredients on the label and the directions for use: 1 tablespoon of salts poured under running water in an average size bath is sufficient.

To Vary
10ml of Vegetable oil or Liquid Glycerine can be added to this recipe. It makes the salts slightly sticky and less free-flowing but don't let that put you off. If you have dry skin choose a suitable oil from the skincare oils post and allow the salts to dry on greaseproof paper for 24 hours before putting them into the jar.   Or

Use the zest of an orange and combine with sweet orange essential oil.

Bath Salts as Gifts

Whichever type of salts you decide to use as your base ingredient for your bath salts recipe - this has got to be the easiest and most effective homemade beauty recipe on this website! All you need is a fancy jar to put them in and a little ribbon or lace and you have a delightfully aromatic gift. Don't know what to give your child's teacher at the end of term? Well look no further...

Basic Lavender Bath Salts

Ingredients200g Coarse Sea Salt
200g Epsom Salts
100g Dead Sea Salt
5ml liquid Glycerine (optional)
10ml Lavender Essential Oil

Method
Combine the salts together in a glass or china bowl or jug. Do not use plastic bowls or spoons since the essential oils can discolour these. (And always remember to clean the bath thoroughly after using the salts since prolonged use of essential oils can discolour your bath too!)

Sprinkle on the lavender essential oil and liquid glycerine if using. With a wire whisk carefully mix the ingredients until everything is well combined. Mix really well. The better you mix the better the end product. If you have used liquid glycerine the salts mixture may feel a bit wet or sticky. If so, you can dry them by spreading them onto greaseproof paper and leave for 24 hours.

Pack the salts into a fancy apothecary jar or container and label it. Include ingredients on your label in case the person you are giving them to is allergic to anything and directions for use. i.e. A tablespoon of scented bath salts poured under running water is plenty for an average bath.

A single sprig of fresh lavender can be inserted into the jar for decoration. I tend not to include actual lavender buds in any of my recipes since they do not look nice once they are floating on the top of the bathwater, however if you like this sort of thing, remember less is better... you don't want it to look like a swarm of ants in your bath!

Leave the salts in the jar for at least 24 hours to allow the essential oil to settle down before using in the bath.

To Vary
Absolutely any pleasant smelling essential oil or blend of essential oils can be used in this recipe. Just be guided by your nose... if it is a very strong smelling essential oil then you may wish to use slightly less than the recommended 10ml.

The liquid glycerine can be replaced with a similar quantity of vegetable oil - choose one that suits your skintype.There are plenty of suggested essential oil blends in one of my earlier posts (just click on essential oils on the label cloud above) and more information about vegetable and plant oils for use in skincare... again look for the label that applies and click.

Coming up next a recipe for detox bathsalts.

Epsom Salts

 A Miracle Cure that Seems to Work!

Epsom salts or more accurately Magnesium Sulphate is the second-most abundant element in human cells and the fourth-most important positively charged ion in the body, so it's little wonder this low-profile mineral is so vital to good health and well being. Magnesium, the major component of Epsom Salts, also helps to regulate the activity of more than 325 enzymes and performs a vital role in orchestrating many bodily functions, from muscle control and electrical impulses to energy production and the elimination of harmful toxins.
Believe it or not but you can increase your magnesium levels from soaking in a bath enriched with magnesium sulphate crystals, commonly known as Epsom Salt. Information obtained from The Epsom Salts Council.

Finding epsom salts in reasonably large quantities is often tricky, the chemist usually sells it in 50g to 100g quantities, which is really too small for bath salt making.You should try Googling for a mail order company that sells it in 2kg packs or more - anything less is really not useful.

When I was a child, Epsom Salts were used in my home as a cure for the common cold. A very hot bath laced with a large handful of Salts was prepared, the idea being to immerse in it for as long as it was possible, with top-ups of very hot water to ensure that the temperature of the body was kept high. Copious sweating is the result. After a while the sick person is dried off and wrapped in thick blankets and put to bed with a warm bedpan for company and hot toddy (whisky, lemon and hot water... if you were an adult), the sweating no doubt continues and upon waking in the morning the cold has miraculously disappeared. 

We now know that extremely hot water is not good for the skin, it accelerates the aging process and should be avoided if at all possible. But certainly Epsom salts dissolved in the bath in large quantities will make you sweat copiously and I know in our house many a cold was cured in this way. (NB. It is not a good idea to use very heavy doses of salts in your bath if you suffer from high blood pressure or a heart condition, if in doubt check with your doctor). 

While increasing your magnesium levels, Epsom Salt also delivers sulphates, which are extremely difficult to get through food but which are readily absorbed through the skin. Sulphates serve a wide variety of functions in the body, playing a vital role in the formation of brain tissue, joint proteins and the mucin proteins that line the walls of the digestive tract. Sulphates also stimulate the pancreas to generate digestive enzymes and are believed to help detoxify the body's residue of medicines and environmental contaminants.

A variety of factors contributes to a magnesium deficiency. Intensive farming practices deplete magnesium from the soil, and magnesium is not a standard component in most fertilizers. Therefore, a diet that would have supplied enough magnesium a century ago may not supply enough today.

Of course it isn't simply the salts that work their magic on you. Full immersion of the body in water at least once a week is, in my opinion, a necessity for continuing good health. There are documented health benefits to full immersion (hence the continuing popularity of spa’s and resorts like the dead sea) however few of us have access to a bath large enough for this in our own homes. Discounting any medical benefits, bathing is mentally calming and restorative, a bath before bed helps aid restful sleep and promotes a feeling of well being. For more information on water and it's benefits take a look at the post on toning the skin.

It may be a tall tale that Archimedes leapt out of the bath shouting eureka ‘I’ve found it!’, but it is very understandable. How many really good ideas surface while lounging in a warm bath? It is a truly meditative environment which can effect not only the health of the body but also the soul – and sometimes it’s the only place to get any peace from our busy lives.

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I do not agree with taking the mobile phone into the bathroom, I also do not think you should be able to see a television from the bathtub! A little restful music, or even thought provoking radio will not interrupt or spoil the occasion in any way and adding a beneficial substance to the water can only enhance the experience.

Use Epsom salts alone or mixed with appropriate essential oils to help with jetlag, vdu stress and general overwork and tiredness. Although the amount required is actually quite large. I have found that even very small amounts taken in a regular daily bath will have a cumulative effect. If you have any health concerns at all do check with your health professional.

The Mustard Bath

Among the Victorian guaranteed cures for many ailments was the mustard bath. It worked in a similar way to epsom salts by producing heat and sweat which helps to detoxify the body. Certainly if you are feeling cold and unwell a warm bath can be most welcome, the water need not be too hot, since the mustard draws the blood to the surface of the skin generating heat as it does so.

If a little eucalyptus essential oil is added it will also act as a decongestant for natural relief from that bunged up feeling. For some the mustard can be a touch irritating so if you have particularly sensitive skin I would avoid it. I also would not recommend it be used for children.

Mustard Bath Recipe

8 ounces Epsom Salts or common kitchen salt3 ounces Mustard Seed crushed to powder
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger infused in a small cup of warm water for 20 minutes.
5 drops of eucalyptus essential oil

Pound the mustard seed until reduced to a powder. Combine the mustard seed powder with the mineral salts and stir well. Add the eucalyptus essential oil to the warm water with the ginger and then mix in the dried ingredients.

Draw a warm bath and add the mustard mixture and stir well. Soak for a minimum of 15 minutes.
In general the heat from this type of bath will very quickly destroy any health benefits from essential oils but you may still find that the addition of something like eucalyptus or peppermint will help clear the nasal passages (albeit briefly) or simply use something that you enjoy to try and make the experience a little more pleasant.

After your bath it is essential to wrap up warm and take a hot drink with you to bed - and perhaps even a hot water bottle. you are supposed to feel very warm and even better if you are sweating. More often than not it is the raised temperature that kills off all the germs. As always.. if you are not otherwise in very good health do check with a qualified health practitioner before using the mustard bath recipe. If you are suffering with a really bad cold you have several options to help clear it out of your system quickly. A steam bath or Sauna is worth a try or you could give an Epsom Salts Bath a go. That's an easy recipe which I shall give you in the next post.

Bathing without Bubbles!

Bathing without Bubbles for the Health of your Skin

You may think that the old fashioned once a week bathing routine has gone by the wayside. No, no, no! Well perhaps it has in your house. Nowadays we mostly shower once a day using shower gel or soap and think of a bath as an occasional aid to de-stressing. It is great for de-stressing but should not be left for the occasional pamper session. The once a week bath needs to make a come-back and establish itself firmly into your skincare routine.

This post is called bathing without bubbles... what have I got against bubbles you may ask? Well in general nothing, but in particular, substances called sodium laureth sulphate or SLS or SLES can be very drying for the skin.    These chemicals can be synthesised from natural sources such as plants and vegetables, but have undergone a great deal of 'jiggery pokery' in the lab. This can make them fall into the grey area between natural and non natural - it's down to your definition of what natural means to you.
Indeed you can get some very mild surfactants nowadays that cause much less skin problems than Sodium Laureth Sulphate - but it is up to you to decide whether ethically you wish to use it, and how often to use it, depending upon it's effects on your skin.

 If you suffer from very dry skin and your usual product of choice in the daily shower is something containing sodium laureth sulphate, then you would benefit from changing to a natural soap. I have known people stop using body lotions altogether simply because they changed to a natural soap and found their skin simply did not need moisturising to the same degree. It only takes a two week trial to discover if it works for you. What have you got to lose?


For your once a week pamper session you have many choices, again depending upon your skin type or your preference.

Bath salts are considered a little old-fashioned, but like many old-fashioned things - they really do work.
It is very simple to make your own bath salts and very easy to tailor the ingredients to suit your skintype.


Bath Oil is very much back in favour due I think to the increase in dry skin - following on from the use of too many soap-detergents like shower gels. It is very easy to make yourself and need not break the bank. Bath Tea This is perhaps the oldest additive you can add to your bath. The choice of herbs and flowers is vast so you are only hindered by your knowledge. Easy to follow instructions to make bath tea coming soon.

Bath Fizzies Sometimes called bath bombs or fairy dust, these fun bath products are among the simplest to make and can be made from the most natural of ingredients. 

Mustard Bath Get rid of those cold and wet wintertime blues with the ultimate in kick starting your personal central heating. The mustard bath is alive and well... but only in winter!

Bath Milk You don't have to be Cleopatra to discover the amazing benefits of bathing in milk - and if you use powdered milk you don't need to worry about it going off either!

Bath Melts Perhaps less well known than bath bombs but just as easy to make.

More recipes for bathing without bubbles coming soon!

Bath Melt Recipe

Making a Bath Melt Could Not Be Easier!

A bath melt is definitely one of the easiest toiletry recipes to make at home. They are solid at room temperature and so can be stored in the bathroom cabinet ready to use. The principle is the same for all the recipes - you may find that only the base oil and essential oils change.

Use a cookie mould (mold) to set the melt or any other container that you think will give you the correct size. Some moulds intended for melt and pour soap also make good containers for melts.

Remember when you use the melt, the bath will become slippery so you should always exercise caution when getting in or out - and if you use essential oils do clean your bath thoroughly afterwards as they can discolour the bath!

Pam's Lavender Cocoa Butter & Honey Bath Melt

This was the very first bath melt recipe I invented. The lady it was created for worked with me at the time and suffered from chronic dry skin. She was delighted with the resultsIngredients
85g Cocoa Butter
5g Sweet Almond Oil
5g Honey
5g Powdered oatmeal
2ml Lavender Essential Oil  

Method
Place all ingredients except the essential oils into a bain marie over a low heat until melted. A bain marie is a pot of water on the cooker top with another pot inside. You place the ingredients into the smaller pot and allow the heat from the water in the pot below to melt them. In this way the ingredients do not come into contact with direct heat.




Once the mixture has melted remove it from the heat and allow to cool until thick before adding the essential oils. Stir well and then pour into patty tins or something suitable for use as a mould. Cup cake papers can be nice too! Place the melts into the refrigerator to go hard. These bath melts do not set totally solid because of the honey, they were a bit like soft fudge.  If you prefer a harder product then simply leave out the honey from the recipe.To use
Crumble a small amount into the warm bath. It is not necessary to use the whole thing in one go (although you can if you want to!) In this way it will last for as many as three or four baths.

The above recipe is quite a small amount, but it is best to trial a small quantity first to make sure that you like it. If you do, you can always increase the recipe size for the next time!
To Vary Use different essential oils (check out the blends suggested in my more recent posts) or change the sweet almond oil for something more suited to your skin type.

Useful Essential Oils by Skin type and Recipes for Blending

 Aromatherapy Recipes

Quantities to Use

All recipes are given in 'parts'... i.e. one part lavender to two parts patchouli etc... in this way you can scale up or down the size of your recipe to suit your own needs. You will find that most soap recipes contain between 1% and 3% (of the base oils) essential oil along with most other wash-off products such as shampoo or shower gels or bath oils. Products that will sit on the skin for long periods of time and/or be absorbed in total contain much less - usually 1% or less. Be guided by smell on this too. Strong smelling concoctions are used in smaller quantities than more delicate smelling ones, though neither should exceed the recommended dose.Aromatherapists work with so many drops per mls of base product. Some of the recipes reflect this, other's are brazenly simply for scent and will be used up to the maximum allowed by law.

Hint make up a very small quantity of the mixture and allow it to settle for 24 hours and then smell it. Now you can decide if you like it well enough to use in your product.

The Most Common Essential Oils and their uses (in brief)

1. LAVENDER Lavendula angustifoliaSuits all skintypes, acne, burns, inflammations, athletes foot, insect bites and stings, sunburn, wounds, depression, headache and stress-related conditions.
2. ROSE OTTO Rosa damascena
Thread veins, dry skin, eczema, poor circulation, depression and stress-related conditions.
3. BERGAMOT Citrus bergamia
Anxiety, depression, uplifting emotions. Caution: not to be used prior to exposure to sunlight, unless you purchase Bergamot FCF which is bergaptene free.
4. BLACK PEPPER Piper nigrum
Muscular aches and pains, poor circulation, mental fatigue. Caution: Avoid if you have sensitive skin
5. CEDARWOOD Cedrus atlantica
Acne, exzema, psoriasis, oily skin and hair, hair loss, dandruff, nervous tension and stress-related disorders. Caution: Not to be used during pregnancy
6. CYPRESS Cupressus sempervirens
Oily skin conditions, excessive perspiration, vricose veins, wounds, fluid retention.
7. EUCALYPTUS Eucalyptus globulus
Skin infections and wounds, muscular aches, colds and flu, hedaches, mental fatigue.
8. FRANKINCENSE Boswelliaa carteri
Mature skin, scars, wounds, anxiety and stress.
9. GALBANUM Ferula galbaniflua
Acne, scars, wounds, inflamed skin, muscular aches, nervouus tension and stress-related disorders. Caution: Not to be used during pregnancy
10. GERANIUM Pelargonium graveolens
Congested skin, poor circulation, dermatitus, eczema, burns, head lice, cellulite, nervous tension.
11. GRAPEFRUIT Citrus X paradisi
Cellulite, depression, nervous exhaustion, colds and flu. Caution: Do not use prior to exposure to sunlight
12. JASMINE Jasminum officinale
Nervous exhaustion, mature skin, depression, stress-related conditions.

13.JUNIPER Juniperus communisAcne, eczema, oily skin conditions, cellulite, hair loss. Caution: Not to be used during pregnancy
14.LEMON Citrus limonum
Oily skin conditions, cellulite, poor circulation, colds and flu, depression. Caution: Do not use prior to exposure to sunlight
15. MANDARIN Citrus reticulata
Stretch marks, cellulite, digestive problems, insomnia.Caution: Do not use prior to exposure to sunlight
16. MARJORAM Origanum marjorana
Bruises, muscular aches, pms, migraine, colds and flu. Caution: Not to be used during pregnancy
17. MYRRH Comminphora myrrha
Athletes foot, maature skin, wounds, respiratory disorders, nervous tension. Caution: Not to be used during pregnancy
18. NEROLI Citrus aurantium var amara
Most skin types, stretch marks, poor circulation, anxiety, stress-related disorders.
19. PALMAROSA Cymbopogon martinii var. martinii
Acne, minor skin infections, scars, nervous exhaustion.
20. PATCHOULI Pogostemon cablin
Acne, athletes foot & fungal infections, dndruff.
21. PEPPERMINT Mentha piperita
Cold and flu, fainting, headache, migraine, mental fatigue. Caution: May irritate sensitive skin.
22. PETITGRAIN Citrus aurantium var. amara
Oily skin conditions, stress-related disorders.
23. ROSEMARY Rosmarinus officinalis
Dandruff, oily skin and hair, head lice, muscular aches, nervous exhaustion and mental fatigue. Caution: to be avoided if you suffer from epilepsy.
24. SANDALWOOD Santalum album
Dry skin conditions, Oily skin conditions, acne, depression, insomnia.
25. VETIVER Vetiveria zizanoides
Acne, oily skin conditions, wounds, muscular aches.
26. YLANG YLANG Cananga odorta var. genuina
Promotes hair growth, high blood pressure, palpitations, nervous tension.
27. CHAMOMILE ROMAN Anthemis nobilis
Acne, allergies, eczema, inflamed skin, burns, stress-related conditions.
28. GINGER Zingiber officinale
Aches and pains, poor circulation, nausea, travel sickness, nervous exhaustion.

This is most definitely not an exhaustive list of essential oils. But the 28 listed are more than enough for any amateur cosmetic formulator. If, however you wish to go on to developing aromatherapy recipes or perfumes you my find you need a few more. For increasing your aromatherapy knowledge with a view to alternative therapy you would be advised to seek out further in-depth information or go on a college course.

 Useful Essential Oils by Skintype

Dry Skin Roman Chamomile, Geranium, Lavender, Patchouli, Rose Otto.Oily Skin Cedarwood, Lemon, Ylang Ylang, Lavender.
Mature Skin Clary Sage, Frankincense, Rose Otto, Lavender.
Anti-Aging Clary Sage, Frankincense, Lemon, Rose Otto, Lavender.
Sensitive Skin Rose Otto, Lavender, Roman Chamomile.
Hair Care Cedarwood, Clary Sage, Rosemary, Lavender, Lemon, Juniper, Ylang Ylang, Tea Tree, Peppermint.
Nail Care Geranium, Lavender, Tea Tree, Lavender, Tea Tree.

The following Aromatherapy Recipes have been formulated primarily for their skincare benefit.

Aromatherapy Recipes for Normal SkinRoman Chamomile = 1 part
Geranium = 1 part
Lavender = 3 parts
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Lavender = 3 parts
Neroli = 2 parts
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Aromatherapy Recipes for Dry Skin
Rose Otto = 1 part
Sandalwood = 3 parts
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Roman chamomile = 1 part
Lavender = 4 parts
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Aromatherapy Recipes for Oily Skin
Frankincense = 2 parts
Cedarwood = 3 parts
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Patchouli = 1 part
Frankincense = 1 part
Lavender = 2 parts
Aromatherapy Recipes for Combination Skin
Frankincense = 1 part
Lavender = 2 parts
Geranium = 1 part
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Roman Chamomile = 2 parts
Geranium = 2 parts
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Aromatherapy Recipes for Sensitive Skin
Rose Otto = 1 part
Lavender = 1 part
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Aromatherapy Recipes for Thread Veins
Roman Chamomile = 1 part
Neroli = 1 part
Gernium = 1 part
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Cypress = 2 parts
Frankincense = 1 part
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Aromatherapy Recipes for Anti-aging
Sandalwood = 4 parts
Frankincense = 2 parts
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Myrrh = 1 part
Rose Otto = 1 part
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Neroli = 2 parts
Geranium = 1 part
Myrrh = 1 part

The combinations of essential oils to make aromatherapy recipes are pretty much boundless. Especially if you are unconcerned with the therapy side of things and want to concentrate on making a delightful scent - which in itself will have beneficial results simply because of being enjoyable.

So... why don't we start using some of these recipes.  How about a Bath Melt?  Don't know what that is?  Well you better come back for the next post then!

Essential Oils? Are they really Essential?

What are Essential Oils?

Essential oils are chemically very complicated. The substance is not really an oil at all. It is a volatile extraction from organic matter. If you spill some sweet almond oil onto your best blouse, you are going to have an oil stain... and it could be difficult to get it out in the wash. If you spill essential oil, it evaporates into the air leaving no sign that it was there. Mind you some of them are very dark coloured and I haven't actually tested those, in theory it should be the same, but certainly a lavender or a rose simply evaporates into the air leaving no stain whatsoever.

Essential oils contain within them the 'essence' of the plant from which they were extracted. Mother Nature has so cleverly provided us with, not only the illness, but the cure too, and sometimes both are combined in the same plant. The skill of the aromatherapist, as with the herbalist, is in understanding which plants and flowers do what.

Many of our modern day medicines were originally synthesised from plants, aspirin for example is found in the bark of the willow tree, nowadays of course aspirin is synthesised in the laboratory... but in it's natural form, it is much more complex and it's effects upon the body perhaps more subtle. Plants are a very complex concoction of chemicals which in their entirety we are unable to reproduce synthetically, so we tend to isolate the chemicals that we believe hold the cures... and concentrate on making our modern drugs from these. Where aromatherapy wins out over modern medicine is in harnessing the therapeutic value of the WHOLE plant. However... the extent of the therapeutic value is still not fully understood - and little in the way of serious research is done into this field - apart from studies by aromatherapists themselves, science and modern medicine is so hung up on the synthetic that almost no serious scientific study has been done.  Exceptions to the rule are evident in the form Mme Tisserand but I speak in relative terms when you compare with the amount of research done on conventional medicines.

The most important thing to remember, if you are not an aromatherapist, is that not all natural things are GOOD for you. You would not wish to play fast and loose with a Belladonna tea. You should therefore not be Gung Ho with the essential oils of plants and flowers.

If we are still a little in the dark about the full extent of these oils therapeutic values then how do we know...

How (and if) Essential Oils Work?

At first thought how essential oils work is a bit of a mystery. But then if you think back to your own experiences involving smell you will very soon see how it is possible. Have you ever smelled something that instantly took you away to a time in the past or a place you have visited and forgotten all about? The memory becomes very powerful when evoked by a smell. Or perhaps you have comforting feelings when you smell the perfume your granny wore... or home baked bread. Equally smells that you dislike can make you feel anxious or nervous... the smell of the dentists perhaps, or hospitals.
Smells work in this way by stimulating the olfactory nerves at the back of the nose which send messages to the olfactory centre of your brain. This particular area of the brain is responsible for our basic drives such as sex, hunger and thirst. It is also where the pituitary gland and hypothalmus are sited. These two regulate hormone release - which is connected with the control of many bodily functions along with emotions and memories. This is the short and simple guide to how aromatherapy (the inhalation of organic essences) can have a direct affect on our physical well being. When massaging with essential oils they are absorbed directly into the body and into the bloodstream. Likewise if you have used them in a homemade beauty recipe, a moisturiser for example, you are introducing small quantities of essential plant extract into your body - perhaps on a daily basis. It is important therefore to get it right... or at least...not to get it wrong.

Aromatherapy Soap?

I have certainly used this term myself when selling natural soap which included essential oils. I was however always quick to point out that there was no proof that essential oils in soap will have any therapeutic value at all. Why? Well firstly, soap is a wash off product. We are basically waterproof anyway and the whole function of the soap is that it will latch onto the dirt and oil on our bodies and whip it away down the drain.
Secondly, the soap making process is very harsh. We are using Sodium Hydroxide and quite high temperatures - over which we may not have any control... especially if your soap gels in the mould.

If the essential oil does not burn off during the initial soap making process (and this is why we use such large quantities in soap making - sometimes up to 3%), sometimes the finished smell is not quite what you expected. It has been altered by the process. If it is going to have any therapy value it will be in the smell - but I can't be sure that it the end result is what an aromatherapist would expect from that particular oil.
So, for soap making I always choose cheaper essential oils. This does not mean that my soap is a lesser product. It's a question of raw ingredients fit for purpose rather than of quality. Similarly if I am making a night cream for my mother-in-law I will always use an organic essential oil from a reputable supplier.

And this brings me to the essential oils suppliers. It is very easy for us to be fobbed off by poor quality oils sold at premium prices and not to know the difference. How would we know the difference? I have known aromatherapists rave about a particular oil until they smelled the same oil from another supplier... and even then... plants are natural things... what they do one year, they may not the next. Each batch of oil will be subtly different from the last. And the difference between lavender from different suppliers can be astounding! You need to find an essential oil supplier whom you trust and be guided by his/her advice as to purchasing the correct product... i.e. tell them that you are making soap, or that you are wanting to use it in a massage bar (Oooh yes, massage bars - recipes coming soon!) and they will be better placed to advise you which grade of oil to buy. Hint If you are unsure, order a very small quantity, the smallest you can and then be guided by your nose, if you like it... ask for a bigger quantity from the same batch.

Water Water Everywhere...

PLAIN WATER, HYDROSOLS AND FLOWER WATERS

Knowledge about hydrosols and flower waters is overshadowed by that of essential oils, yet their contribution to our skincare cabinet should not be underestimated. A hydrosol or flower water is simply the water extracted from the plant or flower during steam distillation to produce the essential oil. The water smells quite strongly of the plant - sometimes more so than the essential oil.
The chemical make up of the flower water is often remarkably different from the essential oil and the therapy value is not always the same as the oil either. Sometimes it could be argued that the therapy value of the water is more.
"Since the chemical make up of the human body is quite definitely a large percentage of water it is often felt that there is a resonance within the body to using an appropriate water for healing purposes."
The French use flower and plant waters and tinctures internally for health and well being - a practice that used to be common in western medicine over a hundred years ago but which has fallen out of favour in preference to more synthetic chemical-based medicines.
Yet it is obvious to everyone the difference in the quality of water that you use, not only for drinking, but bathing and washing your hair, has on your appearance. Some areas of the world are famed specifically for their water. It is often the first thing we notice when travelling to another area, the water will taste different, feel softer or harsher from what we are used to back home.


The art of bathing has been lost in many western cultures and this is a shame. Immersing your entire body in water is very therapeutic and as part of a holistic approach to curing illness called phytotherapy. Here we are not so much intent on curing illness as in maintaining health... the health of your skin. And I would very much recommend the regular use of hydrosols as part of a healthy lifestyle.
Hydrosols or flower waters can be bought from most essential oil suppliers. You can find Rose water in the supermarket but you will usually find that it contains a preservative of some kind... it's your choice  whether you want to use this or not, the preservative is considered safe for inclusion in food but it's a personal choice.

The range of hydrosols available in the UK is quite limited in comparason to the amount of essential oils but in other countries such as France hydrosols are much more common, and taken internally for health benefits too.

Types of Flower Water suitable for use as a Toner

Chamaemelum nobile - Roman ChamomileRoman chamomile is the number one choice for use with children and babycare. It can even be used straight from birth - which I do not advise for essential oils or soap (even if natural) or any other preparatory products whether you have made them yourself or bought them. Achamomile hydrosol sprinkled into baby's first bath water is a wonderful welcome to the world. But I digress... as a toner it is great for calming rashes, for sufferers of acne, rosacea, heat rashes or general redness of the skin.
Do not use it undiluted if you have a tendency to very dry skin or for wind burns - due to it's acidity it can exacerbate these conditions - however you could dilute it with spring water.

Citrus aurantium var.amara - Neroli/Orange Blossom
This flower water is perfect for a combination of oily and sensitive skins. Can be useful for acne sufferers or combined with rhassoul mud for a perfect teenage face mask.  Since it is very astringent Do not use on very dry or mature skins unless you dilute it with spring water or lavender or rose flower water.

Hamamelis virginiana - Witch Hazel
Do not be tempted by the witch hazel sold in the chemists shop... these are usually laced with alcohol and are extremely drying to the skin. The real witch hazel is amazing stuff, and not so harsh. It reduces swellings, itching, rashes and scaling of the skin. It is very good for soothing excema and psoriasis and will heal cracked or blistered skin. It is a powerful anti-inflammatory.  Witch hazel is very good for mature and dry skins and is considered one of the most useful waters in the fight against signs of aging.

Lavendula angustifolia - Lavender
Good for all skintypes and gentle enough to be used undiluted. Use it with damaged or fragile skin and can be used alone as a light cleanser. Reduces inflammation associated with shaving if sprayed onto the skin both before and after the shave. Can be used with children and I find it a perfect re-fresher for long plane journeys as well as quick first aid for bites or stings.

Melaleuca alternifolia - Tea Tree
Tea Tree hydrosols are antiseptic, anti-fungal and antibacterial. It's a great weapon to have in the first aid box for cleansing wounds (always dilute it), scrapes and fungal problems such as athletes foot or fungal nail disease. It has been suggested that it could be used for acne but I consider it to be too harsh, however if you have a tendency to infected pimples then you could dilute it with spring water - everyone is different and if lavender water is not strong enough for your needs then tea tree may well do the job.

Mentha piperita - Peppermint
Peppermint water is very refreshing and stimulating to use. It is also very useful for inflamed acne or helping to keep the scalp free of lice (but not a sure-fire cure). It is also effective for calming allergic reactions and sunburn. It was often used in France to enhance the bustline... (? oh those French!!) simply spritz regularly (apparently).

Rosa damascena - Rose
Good to use for any skin type, and smells wonderful - provided you find a good supplier. Especially good for mature or dry skin types as it is a humectant, attracting moisture to the skin. Only mildly astringent. Is very good added to face masks for mature or dry skin. I would suggest that you don't confuse the hydrosol with the rose water available in the supermarket... the two are very different.

There should be hydrosols for every essential oil, however it is very unlikely that you will find them. The therapeutic effects of the hydrosol are not always the same as those attributed to the essential oil. If you are interested in hydrosols or flower waters and phytotherapy then I can recommend the book Hydrosols The Next Aromatherapy by Suzanne Catty

Toning the Skin

Toning is vitally important yet...

...for some reason toning has fallen out of fashion, most of us tend to forget about it and go straight from cleansing to moisturising!

It is important NOT to forget this small, yet vital step. It's purpose is firstly to remove any traces of cleanser remaining on your skin, to redress the balance of the skin (especially if you have used soap), close the pores (thereby protecting your complexion from build up of dirt or grime that may cause pimples), and promote a healthy 'texture' of the skin.


Making your own products to do this is also probably the easiest of all the natural beauty recipes provided on this site, and is a good place to begin if you are new to making your own toiletries.

Using plain, good quality water, flower waters or hydrosols and essential oils is the most inexpensive way of making a luxury toning product.

With a little knowledge and understanding of your skin type and using the most appropriate ingredients you can make an enormous difference to the appearance of your skin. It need not cost the earth. There are options to suit everyone whether your purse be large or small.

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Have you ever noticed that sometimes when you go on holiday your skin or your hair looks better? Or worse? There is a very simple explanation for this. Its the quality of the water. Water can make a huge difference.
 
Even if you cannot afford expensive flower waters or essential oils do not underestimate the power of simple infusions. My next couple of posts will be covering the power of water specifically.

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Herbs such as rosemary or thyme can be very powerful for certain skintypes, and for a few pennies can be cultivated in your garden or on a windowsill. The list of herbs in my last post about nature's skin peel is a very good place to start.  Simply make a herbal tea, let it cool and then use it as a toner.  Watch out for some recipes later in the post.


Astringent 'vinegar' waters used to be all the rage - in fact girls were more prone to greasy skin (shiny noses) in Victorian times than they are today. The reason? Probably our central heating has a lot to answer for. A very astringent or alcohol based toner is is not very good for your complexion, even if you have very oily skin, it is a quick, temporary fix for a problem that can be better regulated with the careful use of essential oils or flower waters.

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For closing the pores, the necessity and method used is determined by the method of cleansing.
After soap and water it may not be necessary to use any special preparation at all. A final splash of tepid water may be sufficient.

Whatever you use, it should be as gentle as possible.
After a cleansing cream or lotion or even milk Plain water is perfectly adequate for closing the pores, if a little boring. The use of a suitable flower water can improve the texture and quality of the skin over time. Complicated concoctions are unnecessary even though I shall provide a recipe or two of these!  
After using an oil you may find that a little more astringent flower water or plain water or tea with a drop of cider vinegar (1 pint tea to 1 teaspoonful vinegar)will do the trick. The thing to remember is your skintype and to choose a toner accordingly - it is also a good idea to vary what you use from time to time, as this gives the skin a boost.

Make Your Own Flower Water/Toner

The end result of this can in no way be compared to a true flower water or hydrosol, however it can be fun to do and will utilise whatever herbs or flowers you have in the garden. Be sure to use only plants that have NEVER been sprayed with pesticides.Rose petals are a good one to start with.
Equipment Required
A large stockpot with lid.
Household brick or bowl that fits into the bottom of the stockpot
Smaller Bowl
Bag of ice.
Several Handfulls of plant material e.g. Rose Petals or Rosemary Stalks etc... (Make sure that your plant is clean and has been grown without the use of pesticides).
Method
Place the brick in the stockpot and put the bowl on top of the brick (or place a small bowl upside down in the bottom of the pot and place your larger bowl on top). Fill the stockpot with water to the level of the top of the brick or small upturned bowl. Use bottled spring water, or de-ionised water if you can afford it. Bruise the plants slightly and place them into the water (not in the bowl). Place the pot on the heat and bring the water to a slow boil. Invert the lid of the stockpot and place on top of the pot. Place the bag of ice on the upturned lid.

As the steam from the boiling water (carrying aromatic substances from the plant material) condenses on the cold lid it drips into the bowl. Keep an eye on the water level, topping up if required. The longer you do this for, the more flower water you get, likewise the more plant material you have in the pot the stronger the flower water will be. Once the flower water has cooled it can be used in cosmetic preparations. Remember it will have a limited shelf life and will need to be kept in the fridge.

This very basic flower water can be used as is for toning the skin, especially if you have mature or very dry skin - but if you have oily skin or suffer from teenage acne  then add a teaspoonful of cider or apple vinegar to one pint of flower water, bottle and use after your normal cleanser.  Keep it in the fridge, decanting only a small amount to keep beside the basin for use each day. This is a good tip, especially if like me, you can't bear to use really cold substances straight from the fridge on your face!

Alpha Hydroxy Acid - Nature's Skin Peel

Alpha hydroxy acid (or AHA's) and beta hydroxy acids are added to creams and lotions for the 'brightening' effect that they have on the skin. But you don't need to spend a fortune on expensive treatments to get these benefits. AHA's come from many ordinary every day foods that we have in our kitchen cupboard.
As we get older life takes it toll on our complexions. Even if you have never been down the sunbathing route you may still find that your face displays the classic symptoms of sun damage. Solar keratosis or thickened patches of skin, age spots or areas of discoloured skin like large freckles and freckles themselves which can increase in size or join together to produce whole swathes of darkened skin. Acne scarring from difficult teenage years or infected pimples, large open pores from oily skin or deepened wrinkles from very dry, unnourished skin, can all make our complexion appear drab and dowdy.
Skin peeling with alpha hydroxy acid is not new. There are numerous reports in history of beauty treatments that worked to exfoliate the upper layers of skin to reveal a bright new, young complexion beneath. These were achieved mostly by applications of fruit. The natural alpha hydroxy acid in fruit juice produced these effects but the users did not understand or know how they worked. The more modern treatments actually isolate these alpha hydroxy acids and chemically synthesise them to use in skin peels and other applications.
Alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids are derived naturally from apples, ginger, oranges, grapefruit, sugarcane or willow bark, and will gradually peel off the top layers of dead skin and promote the renewal process of the skin which can become sluggish as we age. Natures skin peels are much more gentle than the chemical version you may get at the beauty shop or cosmetic clinic. If you have particularly sensitive skin though, they can be just as fierce and even painful. Therefore use these with caution and always trial a small area of skin first before applying willy nilly!!
The simple application of orange or lemon pulp to the face is a basic skin peel. But be warned it could sting!

The Basic Process for using Natural Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Wash your face with your normal cleanser and leave the skin slightly damp. Apply the skin peel mixture and then relax for fifteen to thirty minutes. Rinse the mixture from your face with tepid water and if you feel any irritation or the skin looks red, bathe with a cooled chamomile tea. Pat dry and apply a very gentle (unscented) moisturiser or night cream. This process is best done in the evening, and since, depending upon your skintype you may find your skin slightly red (which can last for a few days), it is probably best to choose a time when you have no upcoming social engagements.

Skin Peeling Fruits and Ingredients to Choose:

Always choose fresh ripe fruit, do not be tempted to use that last black banana in the bowl! Tinned fruit can also be used, although the result is better with fresh. Most fruits are suitable for all skin types so if you really want a fruit salad … go ahead! There are some fruits, however, more suited to certain skin types than others and you may have to experiment with several blends until you find the best one for you but here is a rough guide.

Dry Skin: Mashed Avocado (choose a very ripe one, it mashes better); Apricot; Banana.

Oily Skin: Strawberry; Kiwi; do not be tempted to go for obviously sharp citrus fruits such as lemon or grapefruit, although they will dry up excess oils, too much of them can be harsh on the texture of the skin. Green apples are very good as well as cucumbers, a little of the pulp of an orange is good. Tomatoes are supposed to be excellent skin peelers for oily complexions.

Normal Skin: All of the above and below and more besides… melons are good.

Acne: A couple of garlic cloves mashed and added to clay is excellent for severe acne. Unfortunately nothing can be done about the smell so perhaps choose a day when you are not planning social calls or expecting visitors. A little egg white mixed with clay (not too much); Also strawberries with a teaspoonful of wine – red if your complexion is dark and white if it is not. Marie Antoinette used Cognac on her oily complexion combined with milk for moisturising. Honey is mildly antiseptic and gently healing for inflamed spots.

Dry or mature skin: Try an egg yolk and some honey with mashed avocado to soften and moisturise a tired complexion.

The morning after the night before: try half a dozen mashed green grapes.

Sensitive Skin: A small spoonful of double cream added to your face mask. But if you suffer from allergies choose your fruit with care - perhaps start with a banana and a little grated apple and remove it if you feel any stinging sensations.

Rejuvenating: finely shredded asparagus is reported to be rejuvenating but I can’t personally vouch for this one!

Thick or coarse skin with severe scarring To turn your fruit mask into a real 'skin peel' you can add a teaspoon of citric acid to whichever fruit mixture you are using. But be aware this could leave your skin looking very red and it could last for several days. It is normal for a skin peel to feel a little uncomfortable while on your skin, however if it is actually painful you must wash it off immediately.

Combining Fruit with Clay

Choose the type of clay base that you wish to use, combine the mashed fruit or vegetable (your raw alpha hydroxy acid) of your choice. Add any liquid or runny ingredients and if the mixture is not wet enough then add a little cooled previously boiled water, or even a little warm milk, cream or a herbal tea to make it the correct consistency. A few drops of an appropriate blend of essential oils (I know I have promised some information for beginners on choosing essential oils... it is coming, I promise) can also be added if you wish. Smear the mixture onto a clean complexion and relax for 15 to 30 minutes before rinsing it off. If your skin is very sensitive then reduce the time. I am always cautious about combining essential oils with alpha hydroxy acid face masks since they are to be left on the skin for a good length of time - please exercise caution.

Any mask that is left over can be used on other parts of the body too or covered and kept in the fridge for a short while to be used later, this will depend upon which ingredients you have used and how well they have kept, it should look and smell the same as when you freshly made it, if it doesn’t, throw it away.Oh and be sure to tell other family members what you have put in the fridge... not that I think it would poison them... but then, it could!

Macerating Oils with Herbs

Macerates make superb skincare oils. And it is possible to tailor them specifically for yourself. Maceration is the process of transfering the therapeutic parts of plants and flowers into the oil. You must use dried herbs or flowers and it is very important to identify which herb or flower you are using correctly. Not all plants have beneficial qualities. Very clear easy to follow directions for drying your herbs can be found at The Herbal How To Guide as well as any help identifying which herbs to use.
Once you have your dried herb, you then bruise it substantially in order to break the tough outer skin. The herb can then be covered with a suitable skincare oil. Plain olive or sunflower is most common but it is entirely up to you which oil you use. Cover the bruised herb with your chosen oil and then allow it to steep for two or three weeks in a sunny place, giving it a gentle swirl every day. If you do not have reliable sunshine, then simply place it in a warm place - airing cupboard or close to the Aga will do.
After two to three weeks the oil is then ready to be strained. First through a fine mesh sieve and finally through coffee filter paper or muslin, to remove any last traces of plant material. The oil can then be used to make your chosen skincare product.

Herbs in Water - Facial Teas
You don't have to keep your dried herbs for using solely as macerates in oils.  They make wonderful teas and facial washes that can be used as toners or comkbine with other ingredients to make cleansers.  Most of these herbs can be macerated in oils if you wish but often their properties are more forthcoming in water, however their shelf life is vastly reduced when made into a tea.

Chamomile tea is excellent for calming the skin. Simply make up a bowl of tea using a preparatory tea bag (or fresh from your garden if you have it!) and when it has cooled bathe the face with it.  Chamomile can be successfully macerated in oils which then will make wonderfully soothing balms or baby creams.


Angelica (or Dong Quai) is antiseptic and if you buy some from the herbalist you can make a tea for bathing the skin. (It is also useful against eczema and very dry skin conditions).  Infuses in warm oil very easily.

Calendula whether grown in your garden (Marigold) or bought makes a wonderful soothing wash for the skin as well as the well known macerate - use with sunflower or olive oil.

Comfrey which used to be used during medieval times for helping to reduce swelling around broken bones is a useful skin healer. Difficult to find as a dried herb at the normal chemist shop but occasionally can be found as an infused oil from the health food shop.

Green Tea - just your normal standard tea bag of green tea makes a great face wash. Powerful antioxidant and very soothing, can be macerated in oil too.

Lavender - Make a tea from the fresh flowers (and stalks) and bathe the face when cool.  Makes a wonderfully fragrant macerate when combined with oil.

Peppermint - Another tea bag that should always be in your kitchen cupboard. Very cooling to the skin. Can relieve itching sensations.  Makes a fragrant macerate in oil that is useful for foot balms and products that require a refreshing scent.

Nettle - More beneficial for dry skins and those prone to exzema and sometimes combined with burdock.  Macerates well.

Coming Next.  Natures Skin Peel (A fraction of the cost you would pay at the beauty parlour and just as effective!)

Night Serum

What is it? And how do I make it? A night serum is one of the simplest yet most luxurious products that you can make. The most perfect Mothers Day Gifts and a good learning process for beginners to lotion making. A night serum is used mostly by those who have started to see the effects of time or perhaps 'burning the candle at both ends' on their complexion. It is a combination of plant oils and extracts which are dabbed gently onto the skin before bed. While you sleep the special properties in the oils that you included in your night serum do their magic. Regular use is very beneficial to the skin and comes under the category of skin-food - the nourishing and plumping of skin cells which gives them a more youthful, healthy appearance. If you have greasy skin you may wish to be very circumspect about how often you use a serum - but even better, since most ready bought serums are designed for those with very dry skin, you could formulate your own which will not overload your skin with oil. The simplest form of night serum is to use a little neat plant oil on the tip of your finger and dab it on to the face very gently. Choose an oil that suits your skin type or better still a combination of oils. You could add a couple of drops of an appropriate essential oil to enhance it’s effects - although strictly speaking, most serums do not contain essential oils. The addition of a fruit or plant extract will maximise it's potency. A night serum is not advised for use during the day because it takes some time to be absorbed into the skin and for the purpose of nourishment of the cells it is better done very slowly while you sleep. Patch Test Always test your oils by applying a small amount onto the delicate skin on the inside of your elbow. Allow the oil to penetrate and leave for 24 hours. If you experience any adverse effects or allergic reaction to the oil then simply replace it in your formula with another oil. Botanical Extracts It is possible to purchase botanical extracts which contain beneficial skincare qualities. These are not the same as the plant oils and they are not essential oils either. These are particular, concentrated chemicals that have been extracted from specific flowers and plants such as orchid, rose, chamomile, lavender... etc. for specific skincare benefits. Suppliers will usually tell you what each extract is good for and what quantity (percentage) to use in your product. These extracts are also very useful in moisturisers and hair care products. There are both oil and water based extracts available. For a serum you should choose an oil-based extract. For a product such as a toner, you would choose a water-based extract. Suggested Blends for your First Serum   Emollient Night serum for Normal Skin40% Sweet almond oil 25% Safflower Oil 25% Jojoba Oil between 5% and 10% active ingredient* 1% Vitamin E *an active ingredient should be an oil chosen for a specific effect upon the skin. For example.. for normal skin with a tendency towards occasional acne  one could choose Avocado oil, Argan oil, Hemp or Wheatgerm oil or a rose extract, or green tea extract as the active ingredient. For normal skin with a more frequent acne problem the percentage of sweet almond oil could be reduced and the active oil ingredient percentage increased. Please note that oils with a very vivid red colour such as carrot, rosehip or sea buckthorn can stain the skin, these oils should be used well diluted. Amounts as little as 3 or 4 drops in a 100ml formula will still have a beneficial action upon the skin. To help you personalise your serum refer frequently to the list of oils and their skincare uses. in the previous post. Moisturising Night serum for Dry Skin30% Jojoba 30% Avocado 20% Safflower 5% Evening Primrose 5% Wheatgerm 5% to 10% Active ingredient (see explanation above) 1% Vitamin E Moisturising Night serum for Oily Skin 50% Macadamia 20% Safflower 15% Avocado 5% Calendula 5% to 10% Active ingredient 1% Vitamin E Although these formulas may last for some time before going rancid I would advocate keeping them in the fridge and decanting only a very small amount into a bottle for use on the dressing table. Many of these oils can be purchased at a health food store or from the chemist but the botanical extracts are currently only available from specialist suppliers. The Vitamin E oil is a powerful antioxidant and will help prolong the shelf life of your blend and is also instrumental in the removal of poisons and toxins from the body. There is no special method for mixing the oils. Simply combine them cold (oils heated above 50 degrees C can lose some of their beneficial properties). If you absolutely insist on using essential oils (no more than 3 drops per 100ml of base formula for use on the face) can be added to any of the formulas above. It would take an entire website or book to outline the principles of choosing an appropriate essential oil, but my next post will be a beginners introduction to using aromatherapy oils, which I hope will prove sufficient for your purposes. Enhance your Night Serum by macerating a healing herb in one of the oils you intend to use. Instructions on how to macerate herbs in oil is coming in the next post. A brief list of herbs useful in skincare will also be given.  So do check back soon, or sign up to follow this blog.